I like not having a lot of heavy code inside my templates. The only stuff I do there is displaying values, formatting, and some simple logic. Isn't this one of the core principles of MVC?
The problem is arguably that the indirection is really, really costly. Just today I wrote a custom template tag I needed in order to factor out some functionality common to every view on my application. In RoR it would have been maybe 2 lines, but that custom tag was more like 15.
I still adore Django for its efforts to remove all the "magic" code, though.