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As a climber, who sport[1] climbs in really popular areas such as Rumney[2] in NH, I have run across this situation and rappelled rather than lowered many times (the idea that the rappel is less strenuous on the anchor due to less friction heat).

This information is awesome, but it's alternating between "Whoa" and the eternal climber question: "Do I trust my life with this?"

[1]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sport_climbing

[2]http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_Stat...



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