You can't configure DNS at the modem for AT&T fiber, which is the annoying thing. The setting is there, you can read it - but you can't modify it. I have no idea who is responsible for configuring it, either during install or at the factory. So if you don't want AT&T's garbage, you need to configure it on every device and/or at the router (and don't use their built in router).
It more or less does if your local DNS is just presenting DoH as normal DNS to every device on your LAN, since most devices let you configure DNS per network (even smart TVs, which is nice) but may not have any option for DoH. But at some point you have to trust someone.
> It more or less does if your local DNS is just presenting DoH as normal DNS to every device on your LAN
That's more of a proxy than running my own.
> But at some point you have to trust someone.
If I do my own recursive queries from multiple networks, I don't really have to trust anyone. (I mean, that's still trusting authoritative servers, but arguably they're correct by definition.)
Though I could also ask multiple diverse DoH servers to get a similar effect.
using DoH or DoT just shifts who you have to trust, from your ISP to another company, quite possibly one with a greater interest in selling your data or being mass-surveilled.