With forced air -- absolutely. The heat pump provides most of the heat and all the cooling, and you have a high-efficiency gas boiler with 2 zones, one for a DHW storage tank and one as the AUX heat with a hydronic loop in the air handler (as you mentioned) as backup.
You could go with a combo-boiler that does on-demand hot water and a single AUX zone rather than a 2-zone with a storage tank. However on-demand DHW doesn't do well with managing the temperature with pressure changes (someone flushes a toilet or puts the laundry on or both! and you'll get a few moments of either freezing or scalding water as it adjusts). I think it's better to have a superstor type DHW tank. They only lose about 1℉ per hour so with no DHW use, the boiler only needs to run about once a day for a few mins to keep it hot.
For a forced hot water system, with a heat pump you can get maybe 120F water out of it, but the design guidelines for baseboard (and rad[iator]s) typically are based on 185F input water. So for example a if a room has a heat loss of 10K BTU/hr, and your baseboard puts out 600 BTU/hr at 185F, then you need 16'8" of baseboard. If the input water is only 120F, then you might now need ~24' baseboard to get the 10K BTU/hr (or twice as many rads).
Of course this is all dependent on your home's specific heat loss calculation that's based on a ton of variables including location and construction methods, rooms above below, # of windows/doors etc. So in DFW, you won't need as much as in Concord NH. The (winter, 99%ile) ASHREA design temp for Concord NH is about 2F, but for DFW it's 27.5F, so the 10K BTUs for NH might only need to be 6K BTUs for DFW.
So a heat pump based forced hot water system might work well for you in DFW, but not me in NH because I don't have enough wall space for all of the baseboard needed at 120F -- I'd be better off with radiant heat with a heat pump because there you mix the hot water with the return to keep it (the water) no more than 100F or it'll either crack the concrete, or be uncomfortable to walk on. Also up here we typically have multi-story homes and also need basements because the frost line is 4-5' below grade, so radiant slabs are harder to build/install on a "joisted" floor than a slab-on-grade ranch home.
If I was building from scratch (in NH), it'd be a ground source heat pump with forced air system with radiant in the basement slab and a 2-zone high efficiency (propane/oil) boiler (unless Natural Gas, but that's rare in NH) with a super-stor type storage tank and hydronic loop off the boiler as AUX heat. There's a pretty good chance in NH you already have a suitable artesian well for the GSHP (just needs a variable speed pump).
The GSHP systems do have a "de-superheater" that can provide some hot water in the shoulder seasons so the boiler probably is only used in the winter (or if there's excessive DHW use).
You could go with a combo-boiler that does on-demand hot water and a single AUX zone rather than a 2-zone with a storage tank. However on-demand DHW doesn't do well with managing the temperature with pressure changes (someone flushes a toilet or puts the laundry on or both! and you'll get a few moments of either freezing or scalding water as it adjusts). I think it's better to have a superstor type DHW tank. They only lose about 1℉ per hour so with no DHW use, the boiler only needs to run about once a day for a few mins to keep it hot.