It's an overly stylized affectation for a font website but everything here is mouse-accessible; I didn't use my keyboard at all. My scroll wheel works and you can click on the key buttons on the bottom and the categories on the top.
Looks like you're right. The first time you try clicking it shows a message telling you to use the keyboard to navigate and then flashes the list of keyboard controls. I didn't try clicking again after that.
Scrolling is completely broken for both trackpads and mice scroll wheel, so no, not everything is accessible. At least not in a non-buggy way. Scrolling on a web page should never be buggy.
It was fixed. Before, there were nested scroll areas, interfering with each other. Now, at least from a quick test in the 02 and 03 pages, it works better.