I never considered the diode duty cycles. If nameplate was 120-240VAC (my TV says 120 but the p/s PCB inside says 100-240…) I’d like to think each would have the overhead to handle under 100VDC, but maybe I’m underestimating the impact of higher current. Edit: you’re right that the “hot” ones will run twice as hot with their 0.6V or whatever drop.
All I could think about was the (potential) improvements on capacitor lifespan since they won’t have to smoothen, but wasn’t sure if their electrolyte could still heat/dry if it was actually the connection to power that makes them hot.
Thinking further, an internal fuse might blow with the (expectedly) larger current draw at 48V.
And yeah on input wiring, you’re pulling more current at 48V.
Welcome to the world of powering AC equipment on DC. It can be done, surprisingly often.
But as soon as you've got some stuff that requires an inverter, you may as well just light the inverter up for everything. I've got the equipment to do a separate, lithium-backed "DC rail" in my office that would be around 40V, and then buck it down for various devices, run my routers direct on it, and... I've never gotten around to doing it, because until literally everything is on that, I'd still have to run the inverter for things like system sleep (I sleep most of my computers overnight). I'm fiddling watts around and it's just not worth it unless I can actually shut the inverter down entirely. Unfortunately, boosting up to 300VDC isn't cheap or easy.
I've wondered if you could run some of that stuff straight off solar during good sun, but I've never really wanted to subject my computers to that sort of abuse.
> I'm fiddling watts around and it's just not worth it unless I can actually shut the inverter down entirely.
That’s where I’m coming from: trying to convince a family member to setup a DC system so the inverter can stay in sleep mode during evening/overnight, because the efficiency is horrendous at small loads. it’s really academic in kWh savings per day, but it saves you the most when sunlight’s the least and reduces battery cycling. But if you’re running an office, the inverter is pretty much running a good load or off, I think.
All I could think about was the (potential) improvements on capacitor lifespan since they won’t have to smoothen, but wasn’t sure if their electrolyte could still heat/dry if it was actually the connection to power that makes them hot.
Thinking further, an internal fuse might blow with the (expectedly) larger current draw at 48V.
And yeah on input wiring, you’re pulling more current at 48V.