What kills the efficiency of gas stoves is not converting gas to heat, it's getting the heat into the pan. Induction stoves heat the pan directly. Gas stoves heat the air, which then has to heat the pan. Inductions stoves can be 90% efficient while gas is more like 40% [1]. Even if your electric company is using gas to generate electricity, generation and transmission losses can be low enough that you'd actually use less gas to power an induction stove than a gas stove.
What complicates things somewhat is that the extra energy goes into heating your house (if it is not effectively removed by a venting range hood). In the winter you may not be concerned about that, but in the summer it means you would spend more on air conditioning.
> Most of the problems with indoor pollution can almost certainly be more cheaply mediated by adding building codes requiring venting range hoods.
I would guess that adding range hoods is more expensive than switching everyone to electric stoves. Existing structures often have no provisions for venting to the outside and would often require very expensive retrofits. It would require opening up the ceiling to add ductwork, potentially building soffits if there isn't enough room in the ceiling, placing a vent in the exterior, etc. Range hoods above a certain CFM also require provisions for make-up air. In new construction, obviously the costs are different, but the cost difference between a gas and electric stove is also minimal.
Venting hoods would solve a lot more problems, though. Cooking on an electric stove or in an electric oven still generates a lot of particulates that I'd rather not subject everyone in the house to. Not to mention making everything smell like whatever I'm cooking for the next day. Personally, I'd rather have induction and a venting range hood.
> The fact that (as far as I have understood, can't find the link) the vast majority of US homes do not have a hood that vents to the outside is crazy. This should be the default for all new construction.
I agree and I think we are starting to see some areas move in this direction. But even if it was mandated today, most people wouldn't have venting range hoods for decades to come because they live in older buildings. I think we need incentives to retrofit buildings with better ventilation.
> I would guess that adding range hoods is more expensive than switching everyone to electric stoves.
Doesn't this depend critically on what percent of gas stove owners have hoods? If 75% do, then you'd have to "fix" 3x as many kitchens if your operation is replacing stoves versus adding ventilation. If only 20% have hoods, then it could make more sense to swap the stoves. But even this doesn't make sense if the article is correct and there is not evidence of gas being worse.
My own anecdotal experience is that in America, very few homes have hoods that vent to outside the building. I have lived in one LEED certified apartment building that had one, and even that had issues with the exhaust backing up because they needed to clean the exterior grille (it vented next to the dryer vent). In single family homes I have generally seen them in high end subdivisions or custom builds. I believe the code in some areas is getting stricter and they are starting to become more common, but they seem rare in existing housing stock.
I see a lot of recirculating range hoods, but they do nothing for combustion products. They only trap some of the aerosolized grease from frying and sautéing.
Maybe someone who understands the specs better can add more information, but as far as I can tell from Wikipedia, USB4 supports DP in two different ways: tunneling and alternate mode.
When tunneling, you are limited to DP 1.4a and wouldn't be able to do 8k/60Hz without compression (which is also optional, I believe). In alternate mode, which essentially runs DP over the USB cable without wrapping the protocol, you can use DP 2.0 and should be able to do 8k/60Hz. 8k/60Hz requires more than 25.92 Gbit/s (which is what you get in DP 1.4 HBR3, 32.40 Gbit/s including the encoding symbols), so I assume the alternate mode is not actually limited to the 40 Gbit/s bandwidth of USB4. Because it is unidirectional, I believe it can use up to 80 GBit/s.
It looks like Thunderbolt 3 only supports DP 1.4 (optionally, only 1.2 is mandatory), and you'd be limited to the same speeds as tunneling in USB4.
Honestly, if we are confused about this then I have no idea how the general public can be expected to know what their ports are capable of.
Compression support (DSC) is mandatory since DP 2.0. So running DisplayPort Alt Mode 2.0 (which is basically "DP 2.0 over USB-C") should guarantee DSC support.
The new USB4 Version 2 also bumps tunneled Displayport to the latest DisplayPort 2.1 spec. Then you can tunnel up-to 80 GBit/s as well (without using alt-mode).
Thunderbolt 3 is a funny protocol, because in reality only Intel made PHYs for it, so the DP version is bound to whatever Intel controller you've got. The 6000 series controllers have DP 1.2, the 7000 series has DP 1.4 and DSC.
I'm curious, where did you get a heat pump that uses R744? As far as I know, none of the major manufacturers offer one for residential use. I'm also curious about how well it works for you.
It is super common in Japan for domestic hot water heating. It was pioneered by the government of Japan, electronic goods firms, and the power companies.
You'll see them sold under the EcoCute name. Daikin, Panasonic, and Corona (no relation) make them. They get used for homes meant to only have water and electricity hookup, called "all electric" homes.
We have this thing https://www.sanden-hot-water.com.au/specifications/ IIRC with a 300L tank. It was quite a nice upgrade from our old 1960's era 2-phase instant hot water unit that was slowly failing - cold showers in winter are not fun.
As user Danieru replied the heat pump is a a Japanese import (although the tank and rest of the system is locally made).
What would be a more resilient mode of transportation? Few people would take a train from Chicago to Miami, for example. That's something like 1200 miles (2000km). Traveling from LA to NYC is like traveling from Lisbon to Moscow (2500mi/4000km by air).
The US should definitely have more rail--and higher speed rail--but that is only practical in select areas with enough population density. Many of the people in those areas could drive to where rail would service.
On the other hand, a high speed train can do 200 mph (320 km/h) in actual operation. That would be a six hour train ride. A plane is faster, but once you add all the airport overhead, the train might actually be competitive.
AMS-PAR is a good example of when to take the train. Yet I wouldn't know how to begin to book a comparable train alternative in USA for say LAX-SFO or CLE-PIT.
Checksums don't save you from memory corruption. If your data gets corrupted in memory, you will just end up checksumming and committing bad data. Or your checksum could get corrupted, and you commit a checksum that doesn't match your data. Checksums are more useful for safeguarding against disk or network corruption (although you shouldn't have network corruption issues over TLS or SSH).
Apparently Ryzen 7000 cpus can use ECC. I've heard reports that AMD needs to release an AGESA update, though, and ECC DDR5 memory availability is terrible. I'm hopeful that the situation will improve, because I also want to update my desktop. I've been using ECC memory since losing a filesystem on a desktop when a DIMM went bad.
It might also be worth noting that the SNES used non-square pixels. CRTs didn't really have a discrete horizontal resolution, so they could stretch the 8:7 image about 17% horizontally to 4:3. In other words, each pixel had a 7:6 aspect ratio. On an LCD, it's difficult to do this and still get all the pixels in the grid without any blurring or wobble. Even if you choose the vertical resolution as an exact multiple of 224, the horizontal resolution often won't be quite right. I believe 896x672 is the smallest resolution that will work exactly (for displaying 256x224 with 7:6 pixels).
I noticed this when I was playing guitar and using my laptop at the same time. The strings and bridge on an electric guitar are grounded. When I had my arm touching the bridge and I put my hand on the MacBook's case, I would get a mild shock.
I measured the voltage difference and, if I recall correctly, it was something like 20V. I started using the 3-prong adapter and haven't had any more issues.
You should absolutely make a habit of not touching anything else as long as any part of your body touches the strings, bridge, tuners or other conductive parts of the guitar. This includes not touching the mic grill with your lips. This is why singing guitarists should keep a foam mic cover handy. It's also the reason keeping your spring cavity closed (if you have one) is a good idea.
In many places electrical wiring in homes is just two wires and what wiring monstrosities await you in shabby clubs and shady rehearsal spaces is just beyond belief. Be safe.
First of all, it's not just the voltage that is dangerous. Though, higher voltage means the arc is more probable, of course. A foam cover is a poor insulator, but at least it helps keeping the minimal distance from the conductive microphone grill. In this case we're talking mostly about avoiding unpleasant shocks, not some life-endangering situations.
Intel's stated TDPs are not accurate representations of how much power a chip actually uses. You can see in some of these Blender benchmarks the 12900k hitting >230W average:
It's very workload-dependent, so it's difficult to say how much power a chip will draw in general. It's clear that Intel is still a bit of an energy hog, though.
- both Intel and AMD lie about TDP now, Intel much more than AMD
- 225 W is for the M1 Ultra Mac Studio, whole system power consumption - that includes powering the TB peripherals if they exist
- Intel numbers are just the CPU (not even including the chipset) and will only happen if you don't cool it enough and it has to throttle
So yes, I'd rather have a M1 (probably a Pro would be enough) on my desk than an i9 under it. But I am weird and like cool and quiet, not larger numbers.
Pretty much the only place you see Pozidriv in the US is Ikea furniture. Almost nobody realizes that it's different from Phillips, which results in some mildly frustrating experiences putting together furniture with the wrong screwdriver. I bought some Pozidriv bits just for Ikea stuff and they work much better.
Another similar situation is bicycle derailleurs. Many older Shimano derailleurs have JIS adjustment screws. They are just similar enough to Phillips that it seems like it's working, but it's very easy to damage the screw head. I have heard that they moved to Torx recently.
What complicates things somewhat is that the extra energy goes into heating your house (if it is not effectively removed by a venting range hood). In the winter you may not be concerned about that, but in the summer it means you would spend more on air conditioning.
[1] https://www.aceee.org/files/proceedings/2014/data/papers/9-7...