>There's also a growing sentiment online that using AI to cheat/lie is "fair" because they think companies are using AI to screen candidates. It's not logically consistent
Because it's a nonsensical reduction and false equivalence.
It's like if you saw a headline that some grocery stores were price fixing, so you decide it's only fair if you steal from your local grocery store. One bad behavior does not justify another in a different context. Both are wrong. It's also nonsensical to try to punish your local grocery store for perceived wrongs of other grocery stores.
That's why it's such a ridiculous claim: Two wrongs don't make a right and you don't even know if the people you're interviewing with are the same as the people doing the thing you don't like.
>It's like if you saw a headline that some grocery stores were price fixing, so you decide it's only fair if you steal from your local grocery store.
That's a false equivalence on your part. Real equivalence would be to find out that the store decided to keep zero tills manned and forced you to do the work yourself and go the self checkout. You go do the self checkout and keep a few items extra as a form of payment for the work you did. This would be the real equivalence
i used my words to speak to the candidate, so they think its fair game to use their words to lie.
screening using AI could be a totally legitimate usage of AI depending on how its done. cheating/lying has no chance of being legitimate. just like speaking can potentially be used to lie.
most people here arent straight up vilifying the use of AI, just certain uses of it.
ThinkPads use 20V chargers. USB-C supports 20V power delivery. What's the efficiency of power adapters back then compared to current gen USB-C chargers?
You can do absolutely anything to things you own, including cars. That's kinda the point of ownership. Cut it in half if you want. Smash it to pieces. It's all good.
I guess what you're really referring to is whether it's still legal to drive on the public highway. As far as I know you can still do anything as long as it still passes the MOT test for roadworthiness. People do engine swaps. You do have to consider insurance, though, which is also a legal requirement for use on the public highway. General insurers typically won't insure modified cars, but there are specialist insurers that will.
As I understand the US is far more lax in its vehicle testing than other places, but this isn't really related to ownership and being able to modify things you own.
>General insurers typically won't insure modified cars, but there are specialist insurers that will.
It's illegal to drive without insurance. This effectively means that engine swaps are illegal, unless you are rich enough to afford some special insurance
Actually government officials started ignoring the FOIA, firing federal oversight employees, deporting students, and cutting federal funding for colleges that have protests the administration doesn’t like.
Who it's transferred to is a subset of "what happens". That transfer includes legally binding agreements. How those are respected, and the consent involved for those changing, is more on the "what happens" side.
New cylinder - 1.5k NZD + half day of labour (so another $500). My current one stores about 6-8 kWh.
15kWh battery - 5.5k NZD + and hour of DIY.
So technically battery is more expensive but more useful.
Also easiest with water heater would be cranking up the temperature, but I really hate dealing with scolding water coming from taps (especially with small kids around).
Another thing with battery I can charge with whatever solar excess I have, but with hot water my only option is 16A.
>Also easiest with water heater would be cranking up the temperature, but I really hate dealing with scolding water coming from taps (especially with small kids around).
Your water heater temperature isn't exactly my business but please look into sanitary norms on minimum safe temperature. Water heaters have standing water and bacteria might start living there if the temperature isn't sufficient. I think legionnaires' disease is one of the most prevalent dangers.
FWIW you can get thermostatic mixing valves that limits the maximum temperature of the water by mixing in cold water. Lets you run the tank hotter but have the same outlet temp. Fairly cheap I believe.
Heat pumps have COP of 4 when reaching temperatures needed for room heating. Hot water is way hotter than that. The more the difference between outside air and heated water, the less the COP becomes. I don't expect COP of 4 at 200 fahrenheit
True, but you never need 200F for DHW. This is even dangerous (scalding) and harmful to the piping. Typical temperatures for heat pump derived DHW are around 120F (45-50C), with some (bi)weekly cycles to avoid legionella build up at 150F(65C). Your statement is generally true, because a heating installation that is optimized for heat pump works at 85-100F, however in practice not many installations in old buildings are like that.
If your concern is storage you want as hot as possible, less boiling. Thermostatic mixing valves can bring the temp down to a safe temperature for use.
Losses are higher but you store more energy per L, which is often the limiting factor.
Is energy per liter often the limiting factor? Suppose a 70m² apartment with 3-meter ceilings costs US$3000 a month because it's in an expensive city center like San Francisco or Manhattan. That's still only 17¢/liter/year. Expanding your hot water storage space from 45 liters to 200 liters consumes space worth US$27 per year of your rent. Even that cost seems far too low to be a limiting factor, and the vast majority of people live somewhere much cheaper than that.
I think that what actually costs money is not the space but the tank. Higher temperatures mean not only more expensive materials and shorter lifetimes for tanks and piping but also higher conductive losses.
As hot as possible is not the way to go. Heat pump COP will degrade dramatically if you try to boil the water. It is not even possible with the popular refrigerants (R32, R410a and even R143a), because they will exceed their critical temperature. If you cannot afford the space for a bigger DHW tank, then there are two options:
1. Consider PCM heat storage (still relatively new technology, but works well with heat pumps)
2. Maybe the problem shall be solved at the building level, not individual apartments.
There are some with good color rendering (CRI over 95 - 98), but they are hard to find and much more expensive than the average LED light bulb (many doesn't even have their CRI specified so probably below 70).
AFAIK None of them will ever have continuous spectrum (like the sun or incandescent bulbs), that's a limitation of the physics how they make light.
Never quite understood the color spectrum complaint, most of the incandescent bulbs I've ever seen are astoundingly red (low temperature), while I've always gotten the greatest color accuracy in my spaces from daylight-temp LEDs.
How is it not logically consistent?