
Commuting by bike – tips and tricks - avitzurel
https://www.kensodev.com/posts/2018/11/13/bike-commuting-in-the-bay-area---tips/tricks-and-more/?new
======
dkarl
Very key piece of meta-advice:

 _The secret to persist with commuting on the bike is to remove friction as
much as possible._

Lots of greats suggestions here. I would add a few more points. For me the
biggest thing making me pick my car in the morning was thinking "But what if I
want to...." Over time I chipped away at the "what ifs" by figuring out how to
secure my bike, where I could get coffee before work and a beer after, where
to pick up groceries on the way home, and how I could freshen up at work if I
needed to. So:

\- Keep a stash of wet wipes (the big ones made for camping), deodorant, and a
fresh shirt at work in case you have an unexpectedly hot day or an unexpected
9am meeting with a client. \- Learn how to secure your bike, and always carry
your lock(s). Then you'll always be able to grab some groceries or have a
drink with someone after work. \- Get familiar with the amenities that matter
to you on or close to your route. If you're a coffee fiend and run out of
coffee in the morning, you'll want to make a detour. \- Buy a bigger bag than
you strictly need. Riding with a half-empty bag in the morning is the only way
you have the freedom to buy groceries or dinner on the way home.

~~~
stoic
I find it strange to give this advice, then provide 3 alternate example routes
that add a mile or more of climb to the ride. Gravity isn't friction, per se,
but it does pack a wallop all the same, especially if sweat or fatigue (or
injury) is a concern.

Are these roads safer or prettier or something that I'm missing from the map?

~~~
dmurray
Note the author isn't just a commuter, but a somewhat serious competitive
cyclist. For cyclists, fighting against gravity is fun, or at least feels
rewarding; fighting against friction or wind is not. I don't know exactly why
- both simply require more effort - but everyone would agree.

------
Johnny555
A couple things to add about lights at night:

1\. Don't use a blinking light (front or rear) as your sole light. A blinking
light is bad for driver depth perception, they'll be able to see that you're
there somewhere, but it will be hard for them to localize exactly where you
are and how far away you are - use at least one steady light.

2\. At night, more lumens is not always better. You may think that when it
comes to lights, brighter is better, but you really don't need that 1000+
lumen light in the front or that "Can be seen for 5 miles" eye searing
taillight for most road riding.

Most bike lights have terrible beam patterns -- sending as much light above
the road and into driver's eyes as they do down at the road where you need it.
So while _you_ may be able to see, you're blinding everyone else. And because
this pattern lights up the road just in front of you more than farther away,
you're making it harder to see people and objects farther away.

I _highly_ recommend an StVZO approved (German bike regulation) head light --
it will have a beam pattern with a sharp cutoff so you can illuminate the road
without blinding other riders and drivers. Busch and Muller makes some great
lights with this beam pattern.

In the daytime, however, feel free to go with bright and flashing.

~~~
giobox
> I highly recommend an StVZO approved (German bike regulation) head light

While I find the idea behind StVZO sound, if you only shop StVZO approved
lights you are at a stroke eliminating a lot of extremely good quality lights
at pretty much all price points. Even among really high-end bike light brands
(Exposure etc), often only a limited subset of their range has received this
certification.

Much of the issues with blinding other riders and drivers can be mitigated
almost entirely by setting the light at a sensible angle on your handlebars,
if it even is an issue for the light you have.

> Most bike lights have terrible beam patterns

This really isn't true of good lights from reputable companies, and hasn't
been for a while. A no-name bikelight from Amazon for 5 bucks might differ.

> but you really don't need that 1000+ lumen light in the front or that "Can
> be seen for 5 miles" eye searing taillight for most road riding.

This entirely depends on one's needs, but if you cycle anywhere that has zero
street lighting, such as backroads at night, 800-1000 lumen lights are the
_dimmest_ I would consider. Especially on a roadbike at ~20MPH, you absolutely
need that level of brightness in pitch black to ride with similar confidence
to daytime. For in city use, I absolutely agree though. There is a difference
between lights for being seen by others, and lights that allow you to see in
pitch black environments.

If you are struggling to pick a light, I really like the road.cc light
comparison tool, which allows you to compare the actual beams.

[https://lights.road.cc/](https://lights.road.cc/)

~~~
Johnny555
That comparison tool illustrates the problem.

Look at the beam from the ~150UKP Cateye or Niterider (not cheap lights), see
how the man standing ~10m away is perfectly lit up, bright as day? That means
he's got the full beam in his eyes. As would an incoming cyclist or motorist

Compare to the B&M IXON series beam, see how even 45 meters away, the beam
cutoff is so sharp that someone standing down there would have their head
above the beam cutoff.

[https://www.bumm.de/en/products/dynamo-
scheinwerfer/produkt/...](https://www.bumm.de/en/products/dynamo-
scheinwerfer/produkt/1752qtsndi.html)

The main LED points backwards on those lights so not only do they have better
control over beam pattern, but there's no incidental light coming direct from
the LED -- the entire beam leaving the light is shaped by the reflector.

~~~
giobox
The man In question is wearing a high visibility reflective jacket almost
directly in front of the bike, it’s little surprise the vast majority of bike
lights will cause this to illuminate.

I still think this is a much more effective tool to pick a bike light than a
still relatively niche German regulation. It’s not perfect either, but it’s
the least worst approach I’ve seen.

~~~
Johnny555
His face is fully illuminated:

[https://lights.road.cc/beams/201817.jpg](https://lights.road.cc/beams/201817.jpg)

Which means the main beam is shining in his eyes.

The point of buying a StVZO light is not that it meets some arbitrary
regulation, it's that such lights are certified to have a sharp beam cutoff
that can be aimed to avoid unnecessary glare in oncoming cyclist eyes.

[https://pwoptics.weebly.com/model-2025.html](https://pwoptics.weebly.com/model-2025.html)

------
asynchronous13
Mostly good tips for someone considering cycle commuting, but I'm disappointed
in the "Dress for the Occasion" section. It's easy to ride in jeans and a
t-shirt, there is no _need_ for special bike clothes. I've seen this as a
barrier to entry so many times in the U.S. Just check out a city like
Copenhagen and count how many cyclist are wearing full kit (almost none).

There is some extra comfort in wearing bike specific clothing on longer rides,
but don't let that prevent you from getting started.

~~~
vicentereig
Totally agree, as an avid cyclist and commuter in SF. Check his commute,
60mi/6,000ft days are fun, and a hell of a workout! ;) Definitely he's wearing
a kit for a reason!

~~~
avitzurel
Have you seen this: [http://www.sf2g.com/](http://www.sf2g.com/)?

------
Rafuino
The whole no shower aspect isn't practical if you're riding for an hour plus
and climbing like OP does. There's no way to avoid showing up a sweaty mess
and baby wipes just won't cut it.

Does anyone have recommendations for bike pants that aren't cycling pants? I
only have a ~25 minute ride to work that's pretty simple and urban, but I've
ruined several pairs of pants with even mundane, simple cycling. I don't want
to buy a bike jersey and spandex... so pants that I could also wear at work
would be a welcome recommendation!

~~~
Johnny555
In the bay area, it's still possible to ride to work for a significant
distance without a shower.

I used to have a 12 mile commute that took nearly an hour - It's almost always
cool in the morning, and I'd ride slow for the last mile or so to minimize
sweating, then change into my regular clothes at the office. No shower or
wipedown required. On the way home I'd typically just wear my regular clothes.

I don't know how you're ruining your pants, but if it's bike grease or getting
your pant legs sucked into the chain, a simple ankle strap will let you avoid
that. By using a drive wax lube (I use White Lightning, but there are others),
that also minimizes the dirt transfer if your pant leg does brush against the
chain or chainring.

~~~
Rafuino
It's mostly holes in the inseams, nothing to do with chain issues since I roll
up my pant legs as necessary.

Sure, it's possible, but highly dependent on your route and time in the
saddle.

------
mosiuerbarso
Wear fully covering gloves no matter what. Even in summer.

Because if you have a bad accident they can keep your hands safe.

I was knocked off my bike a few years back. Car pulled out at a junction in
front of me.

I went head first into the car but put my hands out to cushion the blow.

Anyway, after the impact, i took my gloves off and the tip of one finger was
hanging off. The impact had opened my fingertip and cracked the bone.

The paramedics who came to treated me told me the gloves had probably saved my
hand and finger. They'd lessened the severity of the impact of my hand into
the car.

The paramedics also told me the gloves had stopped the open wound getting
filled the dirt and debris.

I had to have an operation to clean the wound and re-attach my fingertip. The
surgeon said the process was much simpler because the wound was fairly clean
due to me wearing gloves. And the risk of infection and complication should be
less too due to the wound being cleaner. The finger healed without any
problems (although I do have some scarring on it to this day).

If you're unlucky enough to have a biking accident you will instinctively put
your hands out to shield your head and body. Make sure your hand are covered
fully as it might save them.

I'll never ever ride a bike without them no matter what. Even if my hands are
sweating buckets due to the summer heat. It's not worth the risk.

~~~
alanbernstein
Any recommendations on gloves for summer use? It gets up to 110F/43C in the
summer where I live.

------
contingencies
I've bike-commuted in LA and London, various Chinese cities, and Sydney and
cycle toured in many more countries. I would say skip the bike computer - it
just adds theft interest and provides little info a cellphone can't give you
ahead of time or after, which is safer than reducing focus on the road. Also I
would say figure out what you enjoy and get it in to your routine, for me it
is uphill. Right now I don't have to commute because I put my family home and
our new office in the same development, but I cycle up the nearby mountain
most mornings anyway! This feeds in to the major selling point not mentioned:
if you exercise, your brain is super awake and you are more effective at work!
Another point I would make is that cycling is very time efficient and does not
require synchronization with others, two very strong points for busy
entrepreneurs. Finally, be the envy of your buddies and stay late at the bar
to get all the girls: just chuck your bike in the back of a cab and you are
suddenly not only the healthy work-hard-party-hard but also the sensitive
responsible new age guy. Note: does not work for people who are worried about
paint chips and scratches. Worked for me, YMMV :)

------
foobarian
I biked for many years in Boston, MA, and the advice to assume that everyone
is out to kill you rings true. I've ridden along and between cars, trucks and
buses always assuming they can't see me, and never had any accidents. However,
what got me multiple times over time is doors opening suddenly on stopped cars
(the last time on a car in a traffic lane idling at a red light, opened by an
exiting passenger). So if you're riding in those conditions I think you should
assume they are out to get you by suddenly opening doors :-)

It puts a big damper on bike commuting because it means you need to move very
slowly along rows of parked cars, as well as stopped traffic.

~~~
z2
Indeed I've been doored and have had numerous close calls. What got me the
first time was a false sense of security from the bike lane painted right
alongside street-side parking spaces. With roads that narrow, people may
actually be safer without bike lanes, so that they could occupy the entire
traffic lane instead.

~~~
avitzurel
THE most dangerous places are driveways, exits, acceleration lanes. This is
where you should assume the person in the car next to you is actively trying
to kill you.

When I ride (and it doesn't happen a lot) in a street that has a row of parked
cars, I take the full lane and I will never ever put myself in the range or a
door. I know too many people that have been doored and crashed really hard.

People reversing (to me) basically go "Here I go, I don't care who's behind
me".

------
CydeWeys
Daily Manhattan bike commuter here. You can commute on any bike that rides,
but what I find helpful are: Gears, disc brakes, fenders, a rack, pannier,
lights, and suitable clothing for cold or rainy weather. My bike came with
gears and disc brakes; everything else I've added.

Despite my commute being mostly flat, gears are still quite useful in getting
started from the frequent stops on my commute. Disc brakes work better than
older alternatives and are especially better in rain. Being able to stop
quickly when you need to is very important. Everything else should be
explanatory.

I personally wouldn't get any use out of a bike computer or phone handlebar
mount. Seems like an unnecessary complication and annoyance.

~~~
rhinoceraptor
Do you have any recommendations for breathable rain gear? I basically can't
use my rain gear unless its below 40 degrees, because I'll be drenched in
sweat. I'd rather just change into dry clothes when I get there.

I also second the fenders, if you live somewhere that isn't California, you
need fenders if you're going to ride. A seatpost mounted fender is better than
nothing, but full coverage fenders with a mudflap will keep your shoes and
face dry.

------
gabrielmoshe
As a regular commuter and recreational cyclist in the South Bay, I have to say
how impressed I am that he occasionally cycles to work going up route 9.
That's a serious climb that takes you up a couple thousand feet over 6ish
miles.

One of the reasons I love commuting by bike in this part of the country is how
flat my route is. I ride in normal gym shorts during the week, but I always
break out my bike shorts for a climb like that. I don't think they're
necessary in the majority of bike commuting circumstances.

~~~
avitzurel
HWY9, Montebello, PageMill, OLH are all valid :)

------
jl2718
Bicycle commuting is awesome; just remember that vehicle drivers do insane
things. Do not assume that a green light by itself means it’s safe to cross.
Drivers do insane things. After a while, you get a sixth sense of who is going
to do what. You go over things in your head a thousand times that will one day
save your life. Like, if that truck pulls out in front of you, do you bounce
off his broadside and try to roll out of oncoming traffic, or do you cut right
and try to get behind his rear wheel instead of underneath it. A few days ago
I was waiting to cross a street and two cars blew through a red light at the
same time, one of them turned left, and the other car smashed them head on and
sent the car spinning right over to where I had been standing. I got out of
the way, ditched the bike, and started pulling people out of the cars, fully
expecting an explosion or something gruesome inside. Nothing left of the front
end of either car, but airbags are a darn miracle. The worst either of them
will have to deal with is a few dollars higher premiums. Moral hazard. Watch
out.

------
jonahrd
I'm a year-round bike commuter in Montreal, which many assume is impossible.
There's a great community of cyclists here [1] who post info about ice/snow
conditions, road closures, etc. Some tips I'll add for the winter commuters:

1\. Get a face mask/balaclava - ideally one you can raise and lower as your
face gets hot and then cold again

2\. Get really good gloves. Your bike will be COLD to grip.

3\. Wear leggings under your clothes. I commute all winter in just
jeans/leggings, but my roommate adds a splash guard too. My jeans aren't as
clean as his

4\. Layers that you can zip/button. You'd be surprised how hot and sweaty you
can get while riding in the winter

5\. Grease any parts on your bike that you don't want to seize -- this
includes all nuts/bolts on the brakes and derailleurs, the cables where they
enter the housing, the brake/shift levers themselves...

6\. Ideally you have at least somewhere indoors that you can clean your bike
well every so often (a location where it's ok to track tons of grimy snow). If
not, still clean it/re-lube pretty much weekly

7\. Practice slipping/drifting -- this advice follows for anyone who drives in
the winter too. you should know how to handle a vehicle when you lose traction

8\. Learn to plan your routes. Some streets will be more clear of snow than
others. Some bike paths close in the winter. You need to know all of this

9\. Know when to walk your bike. I still bring my bike most days, even snowy
days! I just walk the bits that I can't ride

[1]
[https://www.facebook.com/groups/velodhiver/](https://www.facebook.com/groups/velodhiver/)

------
DrScump
My tip: check all routes options from the standpoint of a _pedestrian_ rather
than a vehicle.

I used to bike from Sunnyvale to Menlo once or twice a week. My boss at the
time tipped me off to some pedestrian-bike bridges that made for great off-
peak, quiet routes through neighborhoods.

Specific local tips:

There are bike bridges over creeks and major roads alike (e.g. over 280 in
Cupertino, over 237 near the Shoreline trail, and from San Antonio Road into
Palo Alto (behind Sprouts)).

A long stretch of Bryant Street in Palo Alto is a dedicated bike route,
blocked off from auto through-traffic every few blocks.

The only major hassle to cross at street level was Embarcadero.

I always brought extra work clothes the day before and always showered upon
arrival at work.

------
askvictor
Regarding being seen - even if you are lit up like a christmas tree, you
should assume no-one can see you, and have an escape plan.

Also, a major gripe I've got in the past couple of years is cyclist with
super-bright, epilepsy-inducing flashing lights (which are great for on-road
use) who ride with said lights at full-blast on off-road shared
(pedestrian+bicycle) paths, thus blinding any oncoming cyclists or
pedestrians. Car headlines have regulations to prevent them blinding oncoming
traffic, but bicycles do not, and the lights have gotten _much_ cheaper and
brighter in the past few years. Pity that consideration of other people isn't
such a thing...

~~~
avitzurel
oh man, I am sorry of behalf of all cyclists.

I always make sure it's on the least brightness for the occasion. Keeping it
blinking during the day and constant during the night.

------
acconrad
Any tips/sites for biking in certain areas/cities? I just bought a bike to
commute in Boston, but part of me is terrified (I got hit by a car in the
suburbs a good 10 years ago). For example, my route is from South Boston to
Charlestown and there are definitely some hefty roads to cross to get from
point A to point B...and it would be great to know if other people ride a
route like that and what roads they take/recommend.

~~~
avitzurel
Yes. You have two good options

Google maps has a bike option. It gives the safest route it can find

Strava route planning uses other people rides as a source of information. You
can also explore activities in your area and see what people are doing.

Good luck and stay safe!

------
II2II
It's nice to see advice for longer commutes, but I am a firm believer that
using a consistent route is safer for regular commutes.

Familiarity with the route is essential to understanding how to behave (e.g.
when to take a lane or when to switch lanes).

Since motorists typically take the same route while commuting, you know to
watch for them and they know to watch for you.

Some routes are also intrinsically safer.

------
zwieback
I bike-commute year-round in Oregon, which isn't as bad as it sounds. I used
to ride a road bike with thin (25) tires but I wiped out (at low speed) early
last year and broke my hip!

Now I have a touring bike with disc brakes and wider tires, definitely a good
investment. Road bike stays in the garage for weekend rides when it's dry.

------
pkulak
I love doing the same route every time. You just get into that zone, and then
all of a sudden you're home or at work. Been doing it for 7 years straight,
and though I've moved homes and work a few times, necessitating a route
change, I've never been bored.

~~~
avitzurel
I'm sometimes bored between two traffic lights :)

Doing the same route every day didn't work for me, that "automatic" riding is
not appealing at all.

If I feel I need to "wash off" a hard day, there's nothing like a hard ride
through the mountains to get you home calm and ready to spend time with your
family

------
hyperpallium
> No bag on your back

Just want to reiterate this: a small backpack doesn't seems like it would be
problematic, but being free of it really feels like being free. Also, you
don't need expensive saddlebags, a bike rack and basket is fine.

The car is the natural predator of the bike.

------
frabbit
A pretty decent, lowkey set of practical advice. I would only add to it: enjoy
yourself!

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avitzurel
OP here. This blew up without me realizing. Sorry. I will go over the comments
and answer them

------
mharrison
Nice commute! (I used to ride almost the exact same path about 20 years ago)

~~~
avitzurel
I would love to experience HWY9, Skyline, OLH, and others from 20 years ago.

------
elcinr
>Enjoy the extra vitamin D, put sunscreen on

Sunscreen prevents vitamin D synthesis

