

Kitchen Rhythm: A Year in a Parisian Pâtisserie - Vigier
http://blog.longreads.com/2015/02/26/kitchen-rhythm-year-in-parisian-patisserie/

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zaroth
What devotion. Shame on us if we ever design a robot that can compete with
this labour of love! I cook some, bake some, and occasionally venture into
patisserie, and have incredible respect for the _years_ of blood, sweat and
tears that goes into developing this skill.

The intermingling of Japanese onamonapia was a wonderful touch. The part about
the queen of all apologies, _moshiwake gozaimasen_ had me searching for a
pronunciation guide as it seems like a phrase worth keeping in one's back
pocket, despite probably not being around anyone who would understand its
significance when it would be most called for.

~~~
conradfr
Of course it's been already happening for quite some time, and to be honest
quality can be good (but of course can't really compete against the best
ingredients cooked by qualified artisan).

Not sure if you speak French and if it's accessible from overseas but watch
Chapter 2 of this show : [http://www.6play.fr/m6/capital/11463938-patisserie-
et-chocol...](http://www.6play.fr/m6/capital/11463938-patisserie-et-chocolat-
les-millions-d-une-passion-tres-gourmande)

At 44:00, 16 000 éclairs in two hours.

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ekianjo
I had heard that there were many Japanese folks working in Patisseries in
France, but I was surprised to read that in that one it was mostly run by a
full Japanese staff! What's the Chef doing ?

~~~
hkmurakami
There's even a French Patisserie in Silicon Valley with entirely French-
trained Japanese culinary staff with all ingredients shipped in from France.

Go figure. :P

(despite the high prices, their products _are_ quite good)

~~~
ekianjo
Here in Japan where I live there are a couple of very decent Patisseries with
Japanese staff trained in France (at least the Chef) and they are quite good.
The only problem is that they lack butter in Japan and therefore they reduce
the butter amount for stuff like Pain au chocolat or Croissant and it does not
taste the same as the real french thing anymore. Japan should really import
butter, but JA (Japan Agriculture) is probably organizing the boycott of all
imports so that they can sell a ridiculous piece of butter for like 5 dollars
while the same would cost 10 times less in France.

~~~
hkmurakami
Oh so that's why things like butter and cheese cost ridiculous amounts of
money there! (used to live and work in Japan)

~~~
ekianjo
Yeah, it's (mafia-style) organized rarity :)

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bootload
_" Like living in Paris, there is satisfaction in the very idea of pâtisserie:
so romantic!"_

Where I live, I have a local Pâtisserie. My own observations: each piece of
food is the result of precision; hard work; tradition; and the best locally
sourced ingredients. The owners are French, so I go there to touch-up my
language skills, order a montainard, café, half a dozen croissant for later
and sit down.

The produce in the shop window, mirrors the seasons.

The article nails the daily grind of production. If you look at the
photographs, [0] you will see each item is identical, neatly presented and
fresh. The selection is seasonal because most of the ingredients are home
grown. I marvel at how locals ask for, 'Low-fat' versions of what-ever they
order. The shop is out-of-step with the mind-set and rhythm of the locals,
with the exception of the festive season. At certain times of of year, you
have to order or get in early as things sell before ten. Opening hours are
nine to four. Saturdays are busy, as is Sunday. Monday is the day off.

The best description in the writing [1] is the transplanted Japanese, busy
copying the local French cuisine readying themselves to go home and open their
own Pâtisserie. I see this at home, mostly with Vietnamese who also absorbed
their cuisine through French occupation.

Go to a Pâtisserie, slow down, savour the produce then order in French. You'll
never think of eating a soggy croissant again.

[0]
[https://www.flickr.com/photos/bootload/sets/7215762249855945...](https://www.flickr.com/photos/bootload/sets/72157622498559456/)

 _" To make chocolate mousse, enough for 150 people, say, first whip the cream
— liters and liters of it."_

[1] Minor quibble. When I read something from an Oxford graduate and I come
across _' liters'_ it jars. Litre in both the Uk and Fr is 'litre'. Re-edited
for the American market?

~~~
ekianjo
> The owners are French, so I go there to touch-up my language skills, order a
> montainard

Just a small correction since you are into French, it's spelled Montagnard.

~~~
bootload
thx @ekianjo. Montagnard not montainard. Must ask the owners why this
particular name was chose? Hint 1848:
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Mountain](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Mountain)
([https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Montagnard](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Montagnard))

~~~
mercurial
I never heard of a pastry called "montagnard". What does it look like?

I think a reference to a political group of a bygone age would be way too
obscure (not sure why you mention 1848, the Revolution was long over by then).
The primary sense of the noun "montagnard" is "somebody living in the
mountains".

~~~
bootload
It's not a pastry, but a Baguette with a roast meat, salad, cheese slice with
a mustard sauce. When I have another one I'll ask for more details why it's
named so.

The 'montagnard' reference is accurate and describes a political group during
the '48 revolution. 23 June 1848, look it up.

cf:
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Mountain_%281849%29](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Mountain_%281849%29)

~~~
mercurial
Oh, right. Well, it's even more obscure than the revolutionary movement that
gave it its name.

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awjr
Beautifully written and amazingly hard work that I never fully realised went
into running a patisserie.

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nkg
Pâtisserie is beautiful and also very difficult. Disciplined and talented
young people willing to start working at 4am are hard to find, even in France.
That's why many pastry shops choose to buy frozen chocolate eclairs and mille-
feuilles and sell it like they made it themselves.

~~~
hokkos
I agree, where if you name your shop "boulangerie" you must make it in your
shop, if you name it "pâtisserie" you can use frozen cakes and more and more
pâtisseries use them.

[http://www.francetvinfo.fr/replay-
magazine/france-2/envoye-s...](http://www.francetvinfo.fr/replay-
magazine/france-2/envoye-special/video-patisserie-l-arriere-gout-des-
gateaux_829387.html)

