
Razor Burn: A Flood of Fancy Shavers Leaves Some Men Feeling Nicked - grellas
http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748704699604575343210255777650.html?mod=WSJ_hps_RIGHTTopCarousel_1
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knieveltech
A brief word of warning to those that have expressed interest in shaving with
a straight: not only is it addictive, it can warp your outlook on life.

I bailed on modern shaving equipment in favor of antique (100+ yrs old
minimum) straight razors over a year ago and I haven't looked back since.

Initial investment was roughly $200 for a good shave ready razor, soap, brush
and a strop. My first multi-pass shave took me about an hour to complete.

Once I had my basic shaving technique down I bought a set of hones and started
learning how to restore vintage razors to active use.

After a year and a half my findings are as follows:

\- shaving with a straight provides the smoothest possible shave and turns
shaving from a chore to a meditative experience that isn't to be missed.

\- It's possible to do a three pass shave with touchup in 15 minutes without
rushing.

\- shaving with a straight is not economical compared to disposables.

\- The fact that it's possible to restore a 150+ year old straight razor to
perfect working order (I know this because I've done it myself) says quite a
bit about modern build quality and designed obsolescence.

~~~
ars
> The fact that it's possible to restore a 150+ year old straight razor to
> perfect working order (I know this because I've done it myself) says quite a
> bit about modern build quality and designed obsolescence.

It doesn't actually. It's simply selection bias. All the bad razors were
thrown out years ago. The ones that were saved were the good ones.

~~~
knieveltech
This is not correct.

Overall quality and price point for razors manufactured over the last 150
years or so are generally well documented, and there are more everyman cheapo
razors floating around on the market than heirloom collector's items. Having
done restorations on both types I can tell you "cheap" razors typically shave
just as well (or better) than heirloom pieces.

Also it's substantially more likely that a "good" razor would have been used
to death due to hone wear.

------
brk
I bought a Merkur Futur a year ago and haven't looked back.

The initial investment in going to an old-school shaving setup is about $100.
Safety razor, some blades, badger-hair brush and saving soap. But the payoff
is huge over time. A $5.00 bar of shaving soap can last 6 or 8 months with
daily use. High-quality DE blades are $0.50-$0.80 ea, depending on quantity.

As the article states, it takes a little more time and finesse to get a full
shave done, and I _like_ that. It's been, for me, an enjoyable way to start
the day with a routine that requires some craftsmanship and skill.

~~~
JunkDNA
Can you speak to the additional time commitment? I have been considering
ditching the Fusion for a Merkur, but I'm worried about adding more time to my
AM routine. Are we talking double the amount of time? Triple? The thought of
getting up at 5:30 AM just to get a better shave has been the primary reason I
haven't pulled the trigger.

~~~
weezer
Don't do it. I bought a Merkur two years ago and I just back the switch back
to the Gillette.

Here's the issue: errors with a single blade safety razor are much worse. I
didn't cut myself 99% of the time, but when I did, the cuts were large divots
out of my skin. It sucks.

Go with the modern technology and leave the single blades to the obsessive.

~~~
sliverstorm
Is that unique to de safeties? I am using a straight razor, and while I cut
myself sometimes, it's always a slice, not a chunk.

------
RiderOfGiraffes
I'm seriously considering getting my beard permanently removed via laser hair
removal. It's getting affordable, and not having to shave every day, or every
other day, seems like a luxury I might now pay for. I'm thinking of asking for
next birthday and Christmas getting the cost covered.

ADDED IN EDIT:

I personally don't like having a beard. Been there, done that, don't like it.
Also, my wife would be 100% happy with me being (effectively) clean shaven all
the time. Stubble is much less welcome.

Unfortunately I've started to get grey patches, and laser removal is less
effective on grey hair. So just as I'm getting to the point where I could
afford it, I'm developing the characteristics that make it less
plausible/possible.

Typical.

~~~
chasingsparks
Link? I was under the impression that men could not have laser facial hair
removal because the thick, coarse hair would scar under the high energy of the
laser.

(Although, I'm not sure I would do it anyway. Having facial hair as an older
man seems like it would be a rite of passage.)

~~~
dmm
Speaking of old men with beards, I've always loved this portrait of Darwin:

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Charles_Darwin_by_Julia_Ma...](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Charles_Darwin_by_Julia_Margaret_Cameron_2.jpg)

There is just something about his huge beard and the way he stares off into
the distance.

This is also a good one:
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Charles_Robert_Darwin_by_J...](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Charles_Robert_Darwin_by_John_Collier.jpg)

But don't wait until you're old to try a beard! Grow it for six weeks, see if
you like it!

------
charleso
Here's another tip for sharpening disposable razor blades using a pair of
jeans:

<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3Kxiom83Js>

Basically, you're using the denim as a strop to rub off the debris which
accumulates on the blade (which appears to be responsible for most of the
dulling effect). The blades themselves remain sharp for ages.

I've been doing this for a while and now use each regular Mach 3 blade for 3-4
months of daily use.

------
gcv
What, a whole article on traditional shaving methods and no mention of
straight razors? A straight razor does take time, care, and practice, but it
produces excellent results without too much irritation. (I admit that, when
I'm in a hurry, I reach for a Fusion.)

I tried double-edged safeties (the aforementioned Merkurs), and didn't like
them. They produce a shave quality identical to Mach3 or Fusion, but take
quite a bit longer and result in more razor burn. The blades are cheap,
certainly, but if you're going down that road, why not try a straight? Think
of it as an investment in the environment: no more disposable trash to clutter
landfills.

I don't know if supply of razors or blades is a huge problem.
classicshaving.com always seems to have everything I've ever needed.

~~~
pxlpshr
I disagree about double-edge, razor burns, and quality of shave. This video
covers a wet method shaving technique that you might consider.

<http://www.youtube.com/user/mantic59#p/u/35/_VxFXpdLvG0>

~~~
gcv
Different things work for different people, I guess. I can't imagine what
could possibly prepare my face for what the guy in the video did. If I went
through it so rapidly, ignoring the grain, for 5+ passes, any razor would turn
my face into a raw burger patty.

~~~
pxlpshr
Shaving with a 5-blade Mach razor is like taking 5 passes with a single blade;
the analogy is akin to driving an automatic vs. standard transmission. This is
why 5-blade razors save time, and why a double-edge can give you a closer
shave.

You don't burn your face as long as you re-lather with each pass, and I
typically recommend pre-shave oil too. But, tThe Robert's wet method technique
takes a bit of studying and practice.

Nevertheless I do agree with your first statement.. different strokes for
different folks.

------
mcantor
The more I read articles like these (they pop up everywhere once in a while),
the more I am beginning to see a common theme develop, namely: It depends on
the guy.

Google around for a while and look at all of the anecdotes, including the ones
given in this thread. People say that _everything_ is the best. It seems to me
that a man's goal shouldn't be to find "the best" shaving setup, but instead
the setup that works best _for him_. To that end, I've seen each of these
setups described as "the best":

* Gillette (Mach3|Fusion) with (Brush & Mug|Shaving Gel|Shaving Foam)

* Straight Razor with Brush & Mug

* Double-Edged Safety Razor with Brush & Mug

* Buying a giant bag of disposable single/double-bladed razors, making a single stroke with each one and discarding it until you find one that was manufactured fantastically sharp, and nurse it with the "arm as a strop" technique for weeks and weeks until it's finally too torn up to use; repeat

Other techniques include:

* Shaving after you shower

* Shaving religiously every day (so that you are only ever shaving short hairs, increasing the life of your blade and preventing ingrown hairs since you don't let the hairs grow)

* Shaving once a week (so that you are only ever shaving hairs long enough to grow, increasing the life of your blade and preventing ingrown hairs since you shave less often).

(Yes, those last two are contradictory and I have heard that both are "the
best".)

I went on a bit of a Shaving Odyssey a few years ago, determined to find a
better solution than my Mach3 with shaving gel, which yields wildly
inconsistent results. I think it has to do with the blades; occasionally I'll
get a cartridge that lasts 6 shaves and leaves me delightfully smooth without
a single nick, other times the brand new blade will be like shaving with
nettles and I look like a zombie.

I sought out my barber, a salty Sicilian who had once given me the best shave
of my life with a straight razor. I joined him for lunch and, while he scarfed
down a chicken parm hero, I asked him if I should learn to use a straight
razor.

"Listen," he said in his thick accent, brow furrowing gravely, "I won't lie to
you. I speak to you now, like you are my own son." He mopped marinara sauce
off of his lips.

"Don't shave with a straight razor."

I blinked. "What? But you..."

"You'll cut yourself into ribbons. I shave my customers with a straight razor,
but you know what? I shave with a Mach3! If you want a close shave, shave
every day. It doesn't matter what razor you use. The most important thing is
shaving every day. My Mach3 blades last for months at a time."

I felt a little betrayed, but thanked him for his help and duly attempted
shaving every day. It didn't work for me, and my Mach3 cartridges still lasted
less than two weeks at very best. (Sometimes they will be unusable after only
one shave!) I have discovered that my stubble shares some traits with steel
wool, or perhaps barbed wire, and that sometimes it will simply destroy a
disposable razor. That is, what works for a lot of other dudes simply _will
not work_ for me.

I haven't found my perfect setup yet. I'm sure it's out there, but for now, I
know it's not a Mach3 with shave gel.

~~~
bensummers
Have you considered growing a beard?

(A quest to find the perfect beard trimmer is, of course, a very real risk if
you follow this suggestion.)

~~~
mcantor
Yes, and depending on the trim-length I look like either a terrorist or a
history professor. Neither is preferable!

------
pxlpshr
I consider myself a shaving purist and moved away from multi-blade nonsense to
a traditional double-edge razor about 5 years ago. It's very therapeutic, and
the cost savings and quality of shave trumps modern razors at the expense of a
few extra minutes. To put cost in perspective, for $20 you can have a 2-month
supply of razors and have an almost brand-new blade touching your face every
2nd or 3rd shave. When time is precious or I'm traveling, my windfall is a
nice electric razor.

Here are some good resources for picking up the art. I tend to prefer the
Robert's wet method shaving technique. He's based in Austin, TX and makes all
his brushes, soaps, and oils by hand in his shop off Congress.

[http://shaving101.com/index.php/education/11-method-
shaving....](http://shaving101.com/index.php/education/11-method-shaving.html)

<http://www.youtube.com/user/mantic59>

------
dangravell
Reminds me of my favourite Onion article -
[http://www.theonion.com/articles/fuck-everything-were-
doing-...](http://www.theonion.com/articles/fuck-everything-were-doing-five-
blades,11056/)

Especially for the line "Here's the report from Engineering. Someone put it in
the bathroom: I want to wipe my ass with it."

------
MikeCapone
Has anyone else been shaving without shaving cream?

It probably only works for the baby-faced ones like me, but so far I haven't
noticed anything bad happening to my face from using just water.

~~~
DrPhish
I found the same thing starting in my late teens. I shave every other day, in
the shower, without foam, gel or soap against the grain with a Bic disposable.
Also, I find as long as I can clean the razor out from the back one blade
lasts from 3 to 6 months (Gilette disposables don't work for this as they are
closed in the back).

I may not be normal.

~~~
MikeCapone
This is similar, except that I change razors more often.. Maybe if I had a
good technique to clean the blades they'd last longer, though.

------
luminarious
At 24 years of age, I have had enough time to attempt shaving with different
razors again and again. I have hated every minute of it. Wether I have too
sensitive skin or I have not given myself enough time desensitize myself, but
none of the different gels, creams or even shaving oil combined with various
razors have convinced me.

Basically, I gave up about a year ago and use a trimmer to shorten the hair to
sub-millimeter length. A permanent stubble, pretty much. My girlfriend doesn't
find it a show-stopper, so all is well on that front.

I sometimes wonder in morbid curiosity wether I should try again in order to
look more professional, but then shurg it off quickly. I have two more years
of architecture school left, so there's no rush.

------
phren0logy
For my job, I have to shave every weekday. I used to really hate shaving. Now
I find it tolerable and occasionally even enjoy it as a quiet and meditative
time. My purely subjective list of the things that helped me enjoy it, ranked
by my perception of usefulness:

1\. Good shaving cream, in a tub or tube. Try Kennedy's or Nancy Boy or
Proraso. This made a HUGE difference.

2\. Badger-bristle shaving brush. You can get a decent one for around $25-30.
Don't skimp, it should last a really long time. I tried a boar one, and it
smelled really bad and made my face itch.

3\. Decent after-shave. So far I like the Nancy Boy aloe-based one the best,
but I haven't tried many. I have never had good results with the alcohol-based
ones. They irritate my skin.

I tried a Merkur Futur, and a straight razor. Perhaps I was not patient
enough, but even after a few weeks of each I found that I did not see enough
of an advantage to justify the additional time. I have heard that the Futur is
a bit fussier than the HD, so I have been considering giving that one a try
and perhaps using better blades. I went back to the Mach 3, and with the
changes above it has been OK, but just OK. I still get a lot of chafing around
my collar.

Just my input having given this stuff a try. If you do one thing, get some
decent shaving cream and a brush. That made 75% of the difference right there.

------
forkandwait
If you ask me, most of the sound and fury around shaving and shampoo stuff for
men is just the cosmetic company's trying to open a new market for crap nobody
needs. They have already saturated the woman's market for wrinkle cream that
doesn't work and a million shampoo products that are basically the same.

Perhaps I am just a holdover from a curmudgeonly, pre-Metrosexual era...

------
mcantelon
Related: I got tired of buying shaving cream and now use hair conditioner. It
works just as well and is much cheaper.

------
jasonlotito
I learned a while back about the idea of sharpening your blades. I know, it's
obvious. The idea is that these disposable blades that you buy in packs of 4
can actually last quite a while if you 'sharpen' them. Basically, wet the
razers, and then run it up your arm. Make sure you drag it across so you
aren't shaving your arm, but rather, running the blades face across your arm,
sharpening it.

Wow. That's a really bad description. Hopefully you understand. You have my
apologies for forcing you through that mess.

Anyways, it's really helped with the life span of my blades. Before I shave, I
run them across my arm 10 times, real quick. Takes all of 5 seconds, and then
I commence with the shaving.

It's like running a knife of a leather strap to help keep it sharp. Look! A
concise description. >_< Need more coffee to get back to default awareness.

~~~
berberich
Here's the Consumerist article and video that popped up on this a few months
ago. It's been working pretty well for me so far:
[http://consumerist.com/2010/03/make-your-disposable-razor-
bl...](http://consumerist.com/2010/03/make-your-disposable-razor-blade-last-
for-20-months.html)

~~~
jasonlotito
Yes, that's it! Thank you! That's where I learned it.

------
foxtrot
I realised this a long time ago, I purchased an Open Razor (still learning
that one) and a Merkur Safety Razor. I use Feather Blades which are very sharp
and require a little more skill to use, however they run about £5 for 10, Mach
3 run around £10 for 8, its not hard maths :)

A good shave also looks after your skin, and using a badger brush with a good
glycerine based shaving cream with good pre-shave and post-shave routine makes
all the difference.

I use [http://www.tayloroldbondst.co.uk/acatalog/shaving-soaps-
and-...](http://www.tayloroldbondst.co.uk/acatalog/shaving-soaps-and-
creams.html) (top one in sandalwood) is fantastic, it lasts ages, doesn't numb
your skin and works up a very nice lather (when used with a badger hair
brush), I would recommend people try it even if they keep their Mach3.

------
drinian
Just a plug for Somersets shaving oil rather than shaving cream or gel. Works
quite well, and you can carry it on planes without any hassle (I went around
the world with it). <http://www.somersets.com/>

------
amanfredi
I have a lot of thick facial hair and the disposable razors just weren't
cutting it. I've switched to a straight razor with a DE for travel and when
I'm in a hurry, and the difference has been amazing. The area on my neck where
I used to constantly have ingrown hairs is finally smooth and happy.

I think there are four issues at play: \- attention to shaving technique tends
to be much less with a disposable, possibly due to ignorance \- shaving cream
from a can does a bad job of lubricating the face \- disposable razors are
poorly designed, with a gap between the razor and the skin, and are easily
clogged with cut hair \- the sharpness of disposable razor blades is
essentially unknown

------
delackner
The prospect of potentially scarring gashes from a straight or safety razor
have always put me off on the idea. Even with a disposable double-bladed
gilette-sensor excel, the hair on my chin is just so incredibly tough that
unless I prepare everything correctly, there is a chance of taking a chunk of
skin off. To deal with this I hack away with an electric razor first, then
finally attack with razor, since the remaining stubble is much easier to cut
without the hair taking the skin along for a ride.

Is it possible to use a straight razor or safety razor in a way that leaves no
risk of deep cuts?

------
bld
I have a rough neck, and facial hair that grows fast. I eventually gave up
nicking myself every morning trying to get a close shave and went electric. It
would grow back by 3pm or so anyway. I got a Braun Activator, and haven't
looked back. It still needs a cleaning fluid cartridge, but I love the
convenience of running it dry over my face & throat, dropping it in the
cradle, and letting it clean & sharpen the thing.

I went with a light beard for awhile which was also convenient - just set a
beard trimmer to the lowest setting and run it over every few days.

~~~
wagerlabs
Are you sure it sharpens?

I have a similar setup due to my somewhat african-american hair. Grows in all
directions and grows in. Used to have a TON of problems with various non-
electric razors.

Nowadays I do a pass with the trimmer part of the electrical razor and then
with the razor itself. Works like a charm, no ingrown hairs. I don't go for a
super-smooth shave, though.

------
smitjel
I saw this in Money mag a couple of months back and thought it was silly...but
apparently going old-school is not only cheaper but better quality as well. I
think I might try it.

[http://moremoney.blogs.money.cnn.com/2010/04/29/spend-
less-o...](http://moremoney.blogs.money.cnn.com/2010/04/29/spend-less-on-a-
close-shave/)

------
karzeem
If you don't need your facial hair totally shaved, an electric hair trimmer,
like the kind your barber uses on you, is quick and foolproof.

If you do need your facial hair totally shaved, just get a safety razor. The
blades are ~55 cents each, and while there is a little learning curve, within
a week or two you'll be all set.

------
MikeCapone
I have a light beard and only shave every few days, so I've been using
disposables so far. I kind of feel bad about throwing them away like that, but
I also feel bad about paying tons of cash for a "fancy" razor.

Maybe I should take the plunge just for the environmental aspect. But I just
hate feeling like I'm over-paying...

------
Goladus
My favorite remains the Gilette sensor excel. I used to skip shaving cream
altogether with it, in fact. The biggest problem without using cream is that
the cut hair winds up getting caught in water that runs down your neck.

------
zaphar
I've recently taken up shaving with a straight razor. I there was a place like
Pasteur's Pharmacy near me because the only place to buy equipment is online.

------
iamelgringo
I've been using a straight edge with disposable blades for the past few
months. Shaving has suddenly become a whole lot more enjoyable.

------
hackermom
I use a currently 4 months old Mach 3 "Turbo" (big laugh) for my legs/etc. No
matter what the commercials wants you to believe, unless you are one of those
men inflicted with steel wool growing out of your chin, the blades really do
their job not entirely as swift, but definitely well enough, far longer than
Gillette wants them to.

