
Pamir Highway: An epic drive on the roof of the world - MiriamWeiner
http://www.bbc.com/travel/story/20190102-pamir-highway-a-wild-ride-across-central-asia
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bfirsh
I did this trip in my own car this year, from the UK and back.

The article is a bit dishonest about what the highway is like. The majority of
the Pamir Highway (the M41) is actually in quite good condition. There are
just occasional unpaved stretches, notably the mountain passes and the stretch
down to Khorog. The flat bits have good, wide tarmac that you can do 60mph on.

Still - it was a good lesson in being prepared. There are not many people
passing by, so you really don't want to be breaking down. Winter was drawing
in when we were there, making it extra dicey.

The real adventure is getting off the Pamir Highway. The Wakhan Valley, Zorkul
Lake, the Bartang Valley. That is where my best memories are from, and where
most of the photos in the article seem to be from.

Apart from the landscapes, my other fond memory is of the Pamiri people. They
are such kind, warm people. It is engrained in their culture to care for
travellers. When you live in such a hostile environment, you have to look
after each other out of necessity.

It was also interesting seeing how their quality of life has changed recently.
There is no cell service, and electricity only in the two large towns. But
most of the places we visited without electricity now have cheap solar panels
from China. The influx of tourism means that everyone runs a homestay and can
start to afford things like that.

I have been meaning to write up the trip in more detail. I haven't recorded it
particularly well yet. A few photos are on Instagram:
[https://www.instagram.com/bfirsh/](https://www.instagram.com/bfirsh/)

~~~
webratz
Did the trip also with my own car, a shitty 1998 VW Passat, starting from
Germany in 2016. IIRC we passed Wakhan Valley (not sure about bartang) and I
have to agree: the most awesome parts were the detours from the M41. Did a
write up on the whole trip (german only, sorry:
[https://www.purplepower.de/](https://www.purplepower.de/) )

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bahorn
I did the journey in early September, starting in Dushanbe, as part of my
backpacking trip throughout Central Asia. Highlight of my trip.

Surprisingly easy to travel as a lone backpacker nowadays as you can arrange
transport on the day on all the major stops of the main route. (Dushanbe ->
Khrough -> Murghab -> Osh). Cost of the main route was something like $70 in
shared taxi costs.

~~~
sutterbomb
Awesome, glad to hear. I plan on going this summer. The shared costs - did you
find other travelers yourself, or the drivers just fill up their 4x4 like a
shuttle would anywhere else? Any other tips or thoughts that I might not find
in Lonely Planet etc?

~~~
bahorn
I arranged everything on day I needed to move on (except in Dushanbe where I
arranged the transport to Khrough via the hostel, who I just told the night
before). Worked even on the Monday after Tajikistan's Independence day (when I
needed to head to Murghab), so you shouldn't have many problems.

Just go to whatever the local meeting point early enough and you'll get a
ride. Tend to leave by 10-11am IIRC. Try to get the front seat as they'll
overpack the cars to an extreme.

I only did the main route and didn't head down to the Wakhan valley, where I
gather you need to find people to travel with to cover the costs.

Random tips / things to be aware of:

* Breakdowns seems to be pretty normal. They do know how to fix their cars though so you shouldn't panic. Had this happen twice on the Khrough -> Mughrab section.

* There are some lovely villages on the road to Roshtqala. I did a homestay in Tusen and the scenery around there is amazing. The place marked as "Shokhdara Bus Station" in Khrough on OSM is where you go to get transport here.

* Public transport between closer villages and around Khrough is pretty reliable but it doesn't run on Sundays. Bit of an adventure to get though.

* ATMs exist in Khrough and do accept Visa, but none as far as I'm aware in Mughrab (And the banks weren't open in Mughrab while I was there due to the time of year)

* No accommodation in the Pamirs has persistent internet connectivity, even if they advertise it. It's all 3G/4G connections they leave on only for a few hours a day (if that). This becomes an issue when you need to figure out where to stay in the next place on your route.

* The GBAO permit is cheaper if you do it in Dushanbe and don't get it with your evisa.

* Caravanistan and its forum has so much useful information. Planned my whole trip around the site.

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vhodges
A little (!) closer to home (for me)
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dempster_Highway](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dempster_Highway)
is on my bucket list. With the opening of the
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inuvik%E2%80%93Tuktoyaktuk_Hig...](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inuvik%E2%80%93Tuktoyaktuk_Highway)
I can drive all the way from the Lower Mainland to the Arctic Ocean.

~~~
lenticular
I've driven that as far as the Ogilvie Mountains. Tombstone valley there is
hands down in the top 5 most beautiful places I've been. And I have been to
many mountain ranges on four continents.

~~~
vhodges
Just took a look at wikipedia for both and looks very nice.

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narrator
If you want a really deserted road in the lower 48 U.S, try the road from
Mexican Hat, UT near Monument Valley to Torrey, UT near Bryce Canyon. When I
drove that one for many hours, I saw almost nobody. It had plenty of nice
scenery, but hardly anyone lives in Southeast Utah.

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CodeSheikh
I wonder about highway safety. Say I travel with a local tourist guide and
would I be expecting him to carry weapons in the car for protection, granted
tourists can't just go and "rent" guns and sickles there? From the pictures as
epic as it seems to be it also gives the notion of wilderness.

~~~
rmason
I wonder if the Taliban who are across what looks like an easily fjorded
stream knew Westerners were travelling that highway might they cross the
border and kidnap and hold a few for ransom?

Still it looks like a very challenging drive with very beautiful scenery.

~~~
bloat
There's some info here about the current situation, after last years attack in
Tajikistan. Seems to still be considered somewhat safe.

[https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/travel/were-the-
ame...](https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/travel/were-the-american-
cyclists-killed-in-tajikistan-naive-for-traveling-
there/2018/08/14/f8212ca8-9b36-11e8-b60b-1c897f17e185_story.html)

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daxfohl
I did the Kyrgyz part of this by bicycle back in 2008.
[http://daxfohl.blogspot.com/2008/08/stuck-in-bishkek-
blues.h...](http://daxfohl.blogspot.com/2008/08/stuck-in-bishkek-blues.html).
It was incredible, definitely the best part of the best trip I'd ever taken,
but from these photos the Tajik part looks even better! (I diverted East to
lake Song Kol and on toward Torugart pass instead -- I think Tajik visas were
difficult back then or something). Now if I can only convince my kids to grow
up and move out before I'm too old to do the Tajik part!

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sevensor
There was a motorcycle touring forum thread posted here some time ago, with
photos of a trek to the same region. If I recall correctly, the motorcyclists
actually crossed into Afghanistan. It was a pretty spectacular story.

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pm90
Honestly... it doesn't seem that pretty :). Sure its a wild, dangerous road.
But there are certainly prettier places to drive.

I do still like the historical attributes of the path, as the ancient silk
road etc.

~~~
samastur
I disagree, but it would look better on pictures if haze was not so strong
which admittedly it often is.

I've been to many places around the world, but east Tajikistan was one of the
most breath-taking.

Some pictures from that trip (not taken by me):
[https://www.flickr.com/photos/29022619@N03/albums/7215766398...](https://www.flickr.com/photos/29022619@N03/albums/72157663984958460)

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clon
These photos are astounding! What time of the year was your visit?

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samastur
We were in Tajikistan in July and August, but the hiking trip happened in
July.

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myth_drannon
Reminds me of the roads in Bolivian Andes

~~~
samastur
I agree, but it is amazing how many places around the world do. I recently
went to Madagascar and the same thought came to us (my wife and I) on few
occasions. Although it was triggered more by nature than roads.

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jlarocco
I'm sure it's a fun drive, but IMO "epic" should be saved for people through
hiking or cycling the route. There are lots of helpful trip reports and route
descriptions for Pamir Highway around the web, too.

Cycling would definitely be my preference. It's just a great way to see the
scenery, appreciate the terrain, and interact with locals. Probably quite a
bit safer, too.

~~~
hombre_fatal
I feel like we're watering down the word epic, because even hiking or cycling
can't compare to traversing it on a hang glider you built yourself, as I once
did.

A lot of westerners think they can find epic adventure, but they can't. Not
when they have a first world family or nest to return to. A true epic
adventurer has no safety net, much like me on my homemade glider.

~~~
cheez
This has to be sarcastic

~~~
xeromal
Of course it is, he's critizing the OP for gatekeeping an adventure to only
hiking or cycling rather than experiencing the journey on whatever means you
find exciting such a car or motorcycle.

~~~
cheez
I couldn't tell

