
The Perfect Wave Is Coming (2016) - dnetesn
http://oceans.nautil.us/feature/572/the-perfect-wave-is-coming
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orthecreedence
I've surfed a perfect wave, and it's never what you expect it to be. It's the
shitty, sloppy day that nobody wants to go out and you end up catching 30
rides that are so crappy that you're not afraid to try something new. It's the
wave you catch the night you find out your childhood dog has been put down
1000 miles away and the sky is blood red from a strange sunset. It's ocean
beach in SF when the fog is out and you're all alone wondering if you're chum.
It's the wave that's a workable left when everyone else is going right for
some reason you just can't understand. It's the wave you catch surfing with
one of your best friends a month before you move to a new town and you know a
lot of things are about to change.

I don't think I could ever have any of these feelings or experiences at a wave
generator.

~~~
austinjp
Beautiful. Thanks for this.

