
Fitting digital camera components into an analog rangefinder - ninjin
https://frankencamera.wordpress.com/2014/08/30/the-making-of-frankencamera/
======
lbotos
This is absolutely incredible! I've looked up rangefinders on wikipedia but
still don't fully understand. Anybody care to try and clarify?

~~~
ninjin
I was a bit afraid to submit something with "rangefinder" in the title, so I
will take it upon myself to explain it.

"Rangefinder" is commonly used as a short form of "rangefinder camera". Back
in the early 1900s you would most likely focus a lens using "zone focusing",
which is pretty much a fancy way of saying "guessing the distance to the
subject" combined with some understanding of how depth-of-field works in
relation to the lens aperture.

There were also external rangefinders [1], devices that measures distance
using techniques such as parallax. From a practical standpoint, you get two
overlapping images and you adjust the rangefinder until the subject becomes
clear [2]. You can then read the distance to the subject from the external
rangefinder and transfer it onto your lens and take the shot.

Since this is not particularly, well, fast or convenient someone came up with
the idea of combining the two and the rangefinder camera was born. Up until
the days of auto-focus, single-lens reflex (SLRs) also used this kind of
technique for focusing. However, SLRs and point-and-shoots with auto-focus and
zoom lenses now dominate the digital market and most people never see or touch
a rangefinder. They are still somewhat popular among street photographers
though since they are significantly smaller and also since they are arguably
more discreet in appearance.

[1]:
[http://leicaphotography.org/leica/camera/if/fokos.jpg](http://leicaphotography.org/leica/camera/if/fokos.jpg)

[2]: [http://reviewed-
production.s3.amazonaws.com/attachment/2350f...](http://reviewed-
production.s3.amazonaws.com/attachment/2350fec47b9dedc1d1fc555485bccbce96906833/Rangefinder.jpg)

~~~
micampe
_> Up until the days of auto-focus, single-lens reflex (SLRs) also used this
kind of technique for focusing._

Everything else is perfect, but this is incorrect. SLRs use focusing screens
with split prisms and/or microprisms, not rangefinders.
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focusing_screen](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focusing_screen)

You can still mount one of those on some modern DSLRs by simply replacing a
piece of glass.
[http://www.focusingscreen.com/privacy.php](http://www.focusingscreen.com/privacy.php)

~~~
hnriot
The advantage of focusing through the taking lens is that unlike rangefinders
this method works with telephoto lenses. It's very hard to use a rangefinder
accurately with anything much more than 135mm (and even that's not easy.)
Similarly with macro or close up shots. However, rangefinders have many
advantages, the viewing image is never blacked out like a SLR does when you
click the shutter, also you can see around the periphery of the area covered
by the lens, seeing objects moving into the frame, also the two main
advantages are that since there's no mirror the camera can be used at slower
shutter speeds without getting moved around by the mirror slapping against its
stoppers, and again because there's no mirror needed the back element of the
lens can be very close to the focal plane (where the film or sensor is), this
means smaller lenses can do the same job as much larger ones on an SLR - they
are also sharper because of this, and suffer less distortion.

I use a Leica M6 for many of these reasons, it's a beautiful rangefinder
camera.
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leica_M6](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leica_M6)

~~~
lazylizard
small additions. 1\. there's also no such thing as zoom lens for rf. 2\. i
think you can avoid the 'seeing around the periphery' problem somewhat by
shooting with both eyes open. 3\. i always imagined smaller glass area is
always a handicap. the bigger the glass the sharper it ought to be. works even
better if there's bigger film to capture the bigger image. i.e. using ever
larger format cameras...the larger the sharper... 3.1. larger glass is usually
also brighter. i personally always wonder about people who care about
sharpness..like unless they always shoot on tripod, how does it work? they get
sharp motion blur?

~~~
micampe
Well, there is the Tri-Elmar :)

------
pesto88
This is really awesome.

I dream of the day when we will have a lot of options for small specialty
digital cameras. You see a small trickle of them coming out(Ricoh GR, Fuji
X100s, Sigma DP2), but no where near as many as in the old film days.

I could never imagine someone taking on this as a DIY project. I think it was
a really cool decision to take a Sony NEX's components, which I always thought
were lacking in ergonomics, and give it the feel of a classic rangefinder.

So, from my understanding, the camera you have currently only works in bulb
mode. It would be interesting to see a post as to how you would even begin to
tackle getting a predetermined shutter speed to work. Also more sample images
would be great as well.

~~~
hnriot
the NEX would have to be in bulb mode, the shutter is in the rangefinder's
lens (it's a leaf shutter.) it's a little confusing because the author uses
the word "trigger" instead of shutter, or shutter release, but regardless, as
the shutter is pressed on the film camera's mechanical linkage the sensor in
the NEX is switched to B(ulb) to turn on the sensor, then when the shutter
button is released the NEX's sensor is switched off. Keeping it on all the
time would cause it to overheat after some time.

The small camera market has gone the way of the Dodo thanks to wonderful
smartphone cameras.

------
brenschluss
As someone who is into old analog rangefinders and 3d printing, this is
absolutely amazing. I have a Canonet QL17 that I'd love to try to convert in
this fashion.

Questions:

How did you adjust the location of the sensor in relation to the focal plane?
Did you just measure and 3d-print, or did you have ways to calibrate it
afterwards? Your photos are super crisp, which is really impressive.

I noticed that the digital camera screen is on bulb - I'm assuming that you're
using the lightmeter / aperture / shutter controls of the rangefinder?

How do you tell the digital camera to finish taking the photo - do you have to
start taking the photo with the digital camera, fire the physical shutter, and
finish with the digital camera? Or have you automated that process somehow?

Would you be able to share your solidworks files?

How does it feel to use the camera?

------
fennecfoxen
People with more money than time and hacking skills can also consider the
purchase of something like a Leica M8 or M9 (the M8 is actually relatively
quasi-affordable-ish when purchased used) and an old lens (right now I have my
grandfather's 50mm/f1.4 LTM lens, which dates from the 1960s and fits with the
simplest of adapters). It's a kinda cool combination. Not quite as cool as
this hackery. But cool.

~~~
Adaptive
No need for much money. There are hundreds of adapter types available for most
mainstream bodies. Cheap Canon or Nikon digital slr (used, old generation,
etc.) and an adapter, you can use lenses from yesteryear.

I have my dad's Nikon F first gen 50 on an old Canon body and can switch it
over to my Fuji XPro-1 as well, all with some $20 adapters off ebay.

~~~
fennecfoxen
Sure, but this was a rangefinder lens to begin with, and I like it better on a
rangefinder camera. :D

(Besides, I knew a guy and it was a little cheaper than usual.)

------
aeturnum
I've been considering a similar project for a while using a ZI ZM film body
and a Sony RX1 sensor package. Great article!

------
ct1
Awesome project - please practice your soldering skills...

------
webjames
Incredably impressive.

