
Setting Up an Electronics Lab - void_nill
https://jeff.glass/2019/12/01/electronics-lab-tools/
======
Jigg
Author here - I'll fully admit to not being totally up to date with best-
practices for leaded/lead-free/rosin-free solders in a hobbyist environment.
But a fume-extractor (and one with a decent fan) is a must, I feel, and
they're so cheap these days they're worth the investment.

In the Hackaday comments, the other main thing I missed listing was
magnification, either desk-mounted or head-worn. I've put my visor-magnifier
in a place of prominence on my workbench now, shaming me with its glassy gaze
for leaving it out.

~~~
lsllc
Nice article! Glad to see you recommending much of the equipment I have in my
own lab. Something I'd highly recommend is the T-962A reflow oven with the
modifications from here:

[https://hackaday.com/2014/11/27/improving-
the-t-962-reflow-o...](https://hackaday.com/2014/11/27/improving-
the-t-962-reflow-oven/)

(especially removing the packing tape and replacing it with Kapton tape to
avoid fumes!)

This oven has worked really well for me (as long as you don't overload it and
leave plenty of space for airflow).

Also, the Sparkfun 303D hot air rework station is pretty damn good:

[https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14557](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14557)

On the 3D printer, have you actually used the Original Prusa MINI? I'm in the
market for a starter 3D printer and I'm looking for a recommendation from
someone who's used one in anger.

~~~
em10fan
> I'm in the market for a starter 3D printer and I'm looking for a
> recommendation from someone who's used one in anger.

I built the Creality Ender 3 Pro. With a few mods it runs very well, and is
super cheap (Under £200). Had it for 6+ months. I'm into model steam engines
and use it (and a small chinese lathe) for making small parts. Accurate and
works well with OctoPrint.

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blendo
Literally 5 minutes ago I finished my build of an Elenco XP-720K power supply
kit. It has both DC +1.25 to 15V and DC -1.25 to 15V (1A), along with a DC +5V
3A output. And 12.6 VAC, for tubes I guess :-)

$65 and 6 hours of work. No meters, nor current limiting, but hey, it's
accurate and cheap. Manual is [https://www.elenco.com/wp-
content/uploads/2017/10/XP-720K_RE...](https://www.elenco.com/wp-
content/uploads/2017/10/XP-720K_REV-J-2.pdf)

Elenco also makes a pre-assembled version, but what's the fun in that?

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Accujack
If anyone is interested in a nice long video talking about what you can
use/need for setting up an electronics lab, take a look at the EEVblog video
for doing this. Dave keeps everything under a certain dollar limit and
explains his choices well.

Not saying this link is bad for some reason, but more information is better.

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justinclift
Some of this sounds useful, but the author recommends leaded solder instead of
lead free.

Hasn't lead free has been the standard for _years_ , due to safety?

~~~
jpindar
Lead in solder is not a safety hazard unless you eat it, it isn't vaporized in
normal soldering.

Lead free solder is used for environmental reasons because electronic devices
will eventually be disposed of. Since the amount of lead used in one person's
projects is minimal, it only matters in mass production or when RoHS is
required by customers, regulatory agencies etc.

Leaded solder is so much easier to work with I wouldn't use lead-free it
unless I was required to.

~~~
Doxin
> Lead in solder is not a safety hazard unless you eat it

I'm not sure this is true. I'm entirely certain that _some_ of the lead
manages to get away from the place you're soldering. There's no guarantee that
it won't end up on your hands or clothes and eventually in your food.

Granted the risk is probably infinitesimal, but modern lead-free solder is
barely any harder to work with than classic leaded solders. If you set your
soldering iron a smidge hotter you'll barely notice.

That said I use lead-free solder and _still_ make a point of washing my hands
after soldering. Solder has a distinct smell when used so _something_ is
getting in the air, let alone on my hands.

~~~
justinclift
> Solder has a distinct smell when used so something is getting in the air,
> let alone on my hands.

Guessing the smell is from the rosin core burning off?

~~~
Doxin
Maybe. Could be anything. I'd rather not be eating rosin either though, so
I'll keep washing my hands ;-)

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antoniuschan99
Ts-80/100 for solder, bk-858 for hot air rework, and a mini frying pan on the
oven for ‘reflow soldering’

