> The last piece of protection you have is over 10 feet below you - meaning, if you fall, you fall twice that distance.
Minor nit, but the ropes used in this type of climbing will be dynamic, not static. That means you'll fall the 10 feet to the last pro, that 10 feet again plus the stretch on the rope...more like 25-30 feet. I've only climbed lead in the gym, but those kinds of falls are still scary as hell. I can only imagine what it would be like that high up.
Also, good call on the finger thing. I know the story is about him doing something that no one has ever done before and his injury shouldn't be the focus, but not calling it out is insane and I've yet to see one story include that tidbit. Anyone who's climbed knows just how important fingers are, it's hard for me to fathom climbing an indoor 5.13 without my index finger, let alone this many outdoor 5.13/5.14s. It's utterly amazing that he's continued to be an elite climber after his injury.
Minor nit, but the ropes used in this type of climbing will be dynamic, not static. That means you'll fall the 10 feet to the last pro, that 10 feet again plus the stretch on the rope...more like 25-30 feet. I've only climbed lead in the gym, but those kinds of falls are still scary as hell. I can only imagine what it would be like that high up.
Also, good call on the finger thing. I know the story is about him doing something that no one has ever done before and his injury shouldn't be the focus, but not calling it out is insane and I've yet to see one story include that tidbit. Anyone who's climbed knows just how important fingers are, it's hard for me to fathom climbing an indoor 5.13 without my index finger, let alone this many outdoor 5.13/5.14s. It's utterly amazing that he's continued to be an elite climber after his injury.