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A couple of summers ago I did a week on the Grand Staircase. Some of the stuff that truly astounded me, even after spending a lot of time in the rural midwest as child:

* Lying on my back and looking straight up presented more stars than I usually see in the entire sky.

* When the moon rose, it woke me up with the brightness of it. The first night I thought it was morning for a moment.

* Watching satellites go overhead wasn't reserved for just the very reflective ones.

* I thought I'd seen the milky way before. I was very wrong.

* The sparks and tiny flame from a cigarette lighter were painfully bright. The glow of a cigarette lit my companions' faces when they had one (dimly but noticably).

* Staying one night at a motel in the tiny town of Kanab before heading back to civilization, I had trouble sleeping because it was so bright. Staying the next night in Vegas was even worse.




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