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Not perfect but what I did last time I played with backbone:

* As I used sass, coffeescript and haml, I used guard (https://github.com/guard/guard) to watch the source files and automatically compile them

* Used serve (https://npmjs.org/package/serve) to serve the directory over http, could use python -m SimpleHTTPServer too

* Used live.js to pull for changes (http://livejs.com/)

As I said it's not perfect though, while CSS changes get applied transparently, changes in javascript will reload the page (you can also watch only for CSS changes). Still for working on CSS, especially together with LESS or SASS it's quite pleasant. Also it spams your Firebug console pretty bad.

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