Seconding the recommendation for gandi. They have very strong policies in favor of the domain owner. They also provide nice services such as email hosting for your domain. I use their server hosting as well, which works quite well, though not fast.
One flaw with Gandi's mail feature is that new accounts do not get wildcard accounts (forward all @example.com mail to.one address): you need to register each email address you want individually. Apparently they couldn't handle spam filtering.
I'm usually a tight arse but in the case of gandi.net, I have no problem paying a premium so I don't have to put up with all the bullshit that customers of other registrars have to put up with
