- Too many different fonts. Three typefaces (seems like League Gothic, Arial and some rounded one) and four fonts (multiple widths for that rounded). Use two typefaces at most, and create strong identity with that.
- Logo sits without a place, without alignment. Put it to the right corner, above or even before the text, just align it somewhere.
- Status LEDs should be light grey? This label kind of ignores otherwise consistent colors.
- The rational is that the rounded (Quicksand) is for the logo and branding only. Using it for body titles as well weakens core branding in my eye.
League Gothic is doing the heavy lifting for most of the chart.
Helvetica is for a couple of incidental labels. I should really use League Gothic for the dimensions too, there's no good reason not to, so will bear that in mind for future revisions.
The power supply in Helvetica is more a standard labelling convention. It could easily be dropped from the design.
- As for the logo placement, this is not meant as a finished layout, more an example of elements for reuse in other contexts. Still, that was lazy of me :-)
- The light grey is for 'techie' bits of the design. The LED's should be black as they're indicators for all users, not just the hardcore. So yes. Well spotted, that's an inconsistency I'll fix it future.
Thanks again for taking the time.
Model C? :)
Surely there's one or two that are tiny and will work?
Maybe this one?
I for one am happy the raspberry pi team isn't delaying their release to fiddle with wifi. The regulatory non-sense can literally take years per country.
I'd recommend Atheros arl9170 instead.
Simply using the built-in drivers in ubuntu or a prebuilt module from ralink yields an almost unusable link.
You have to be on your toes and willing to compile your own drivers (and even learn about the source and make tweaks) to really get ralinks to sing. The good news is that ralink makes this source freely available.
Atheros's work great but they cost more (like $15 or $20 instead of $7) and you still have to be careful to get the right "mad-wifi" drivers. There are less of them though and most versions work out of the box at least acceptably.
Your advice is sound though if you're just looking to get your one ras-pi on the air with minimum fuss you probably want this : http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN821N-Wireless-Adapter-WPA...
If you're preparing your robot army for world domination on a budget, its probably worth putting in the time to figure out a ralink. I've had great luck with this sub $7 beauty http://www.amazon.com/150mbps-Wireless-Adapter-Wifi-802-11b/... but it did take considerable effort to hack the driver into shape.
At 2500mA this should be enough to supply 500mA to each of the 2xUSB ports.
Many popular mobile phone chargers are micro-USB and support 5V 1A upwards.
I imagine the 100 being made up now come from the common pool of parts. However, yields of the components and the manufacturing process could affect the initial batch size. Then again, the foundation may have accounted for this :)
I was thinking it would be great to have a network of these as remote sensors, or to distribute synchronized video or audio. Instead it of it being powered via the USB interface it would provide enough power via PoE to power other USB devices.
EDIT: Just realised there is no e-sata, which I misremembered it having, still a USB2 NAS device is OK and far cheaper than anything currently available.
That's why your laptop will often have the wifi+bluetooth model as a little simm card under a cover, it allows them to get the radio 'system' approved separately from the computer and use the same radio in different models without repeating the process.
One benefit of this, is that there is a thriving marker for these things, to the point that you can get a pulled card off ebay for $12, a suitable PCI carrier card, and build a great little WiFi n card for cheap.
Compare with the BeagleBone which is $89 and has no video outputs on board, but does have a better ARM Cortex chip.
Personally I want both for different reasons :)
Wouldn't it be nice if all the I/O ports were on one edge! Cases could be much neater...
I realize the interference makes that too hard on a board that small, but I can wish.