One secret to having a good developer experience in any company is having a very small decision "surface area" for the developer. By that I mean, he/she only needs to talk to 1 or 2 people in order to make a decision. A small company has this sort of environment naturally but a "big" company can somewhat duplicate it by having a small team with a great manager.
The reality is that large companies tend to have organizational reasons not to hire the sort of people that they say they want.
They express the desire to hire the top 1% but of course they can't or don't want to pay a salary in the top 1% - perhaps they've never paid that much for a developer or maybe it wouldn't be fair to the less talented or more exploited devs already on the payroll.
They say they want "smart people that get things done" but they aren't prepared to give them someplace quiet to think or resources they need.
Heck, sometimes it seems like HR's job is to keep the best people out. Do they really want someone exceptional even brilliant? "Oh no, we couldn't hire him, he doesn't have a degree."