For example, if you're a ComEd customer in the Chicago area, your smart meter is Zigbee-enabled and works with a handful of approved devices:
The information won't be as finely detailed since it's not sensing every circuit in the home, but for $70 and no tinkering necessary I can read my home's consumption in XML format every 10 seconds.
Now that there are zero applications for it, it's about as useful as a dumb meter.
I have not gotten around to figuring out which one is mine or a good way to system to store/display the data but I certainly can read the date.
In the grand scheme of things it is a minor to medium security flaw, power usage could be used to infer which houses contain valuable items and when people are home. I'd say medium at most since a lot of other things Visible curbside indicate this as well (lights, cars in the driveway, etc.). On the other hand, electronics are pretty efficient. A wealthy house with all the lights on is still using less electricity than a small apartment using an electric stove. But I guess if you were really interested in stealing electric cars then it would be really useful.
"Using a cheap RTL-SDR, it didn’t take long for [k-roy] to tap into this transmission and stumbled across the power readings for his entire neighborhood using a simple command"
Am I happy with it? Good question. I dropped RRTP last summer so I'm not as involved with it anymore. It doesn't really tell me much that I don't know, I suppose.
Might be discontinued now, but I think Rainforest's gateway product is a continuation.
 I see it can use EmonCMS which is part of the OpenEnergyMonitor project.
The future of IoT is open, hackable, and decentralized. The IoTaWatt looks like a big step in the right direction.
(post 737 has the iotawatt details)
I have been running this setup since October with great results.
It is possible in the future I might switch to something else, but the units have been working really well without any glitches.
LeGrand has an open API and is not cloud-based. Leviton, last time o checked, was cloud only.
I'm interested in a closed (for everyone but ME) system as well. I'm not sure I'll be able to fit much hardware in the breaker box so I'm unsure.
How do you route them out of the box? Should the wires criss-cross? Bundle them?
I much prefer this approach (by Emporia and IoTaWatt) of multiple CTs (non-contact sensors applied to specific circuits) vs. the "Learning" devices that try to interpret what's using energy based on a signature of power usage, with reportedly very poor success.
The app is quit useful. I do wish I could get access to the raw data by default, without needing to send it through their cloud first (only way to get data off the decice) and submit an export request to get emailed a CSV.
I have no idea if it works, but it might be worth taking a look.
However even with my entire electrical panel switched off at the main breaker, the supply from the meter is always live. So with the panel cover removed in order to install the clips, it would have been possible to touch the supply lines and get a lethal shock.
If you have any qualms about working safely in an electrical panel, hiring an electrician is the way to go.
What do you do with this information? I can see it being useful for detecting anomalies, but for every day usage... I am not going to stop using my refrigerator to save power.
We use it to keep an eye on how much energy we use for grow lights in the greenhouse.
As a bonus, the electricity usage of the well pump is a proxy for water level in the well.
If you have it connected to a major electricity consuming appliance, like a refrigerator, an electric dryer, or a furnace (whose fans use a ton of electricity), then in theory you can see any degradation in efficiency over time which may indicate that they need repairs. I doubt most people will do that.
For example, I'm pretty nerdy about energy use, and it took me 2 years to notice that the output of my house PV system had reduced 30% because of some trees that had grown taller.
Also, in the future, this sort of monitoring will likely be built into the appliances themselves.
There are also easier ways to achieve something like this, for example kill-a-watt meters.
analysis/optimize energy consumption, e.g.:
* we moved the freezer from the kitchen to the basement instead of buying a more energy efficient new one
* the pump in our (20yrs old) heating system constantly uses 60W -> the whole furnace is now due for replacement
* determine your electricity base load in order to make an informed decision about the capacity of a battery system that buffers energy demand during the times the PV system does not supply energy
I'd say the real value is in looking into long term patterns (no ML needed).
But there is big potential for this in industrial settings. Imagine being able to monitor machine uptime around the clock by sensing amperage usage.
Tracking cycle time by counting cyclic spikes in current and putting it on a live dashboard.
Detecting motor degradation by sensing increases in amperage required over time.
Calculating energy consumption per pound of commodity part produced.
Very slick! I've ordered one.
Ordinarily this would mean you need to buy prefabricated 3.5mm TRS cables and cut one end off to wire them up to the CT, because it's difficult or annoying to terminate your own 3.5mm TRS plug connector.
Why not some other connector choice? Maybe RJ11, or one of the typical 'green' two conductor terminal blocks socket/plug combos with latches you can get from Digikey or Mouser?
FYI, there are 3.5mm TRS adapters out there that have green screw terminals if that's your thing. They're very inexpensive.
But connecting my own current transformers isn't the intent here, I don't think. I think the intent is to have plug-and-play kits that are hard to screw up.
And the prices for their own CTs seem fine to me.
This style also has an integrated burden resistor, which makes it far safer than a plain current transformer.
Other than that... easy install, great instructions.
In order to determine power consumption for an entire circuit, or your entire house, you need to put a sensor around a wire in the breaker box. You can’t even do it in the walls because once power cabling leaves your breaker box, all the conductors for a given circuit are bundled, and if you put a current transformer around that bundle, it will show net zero power because it’s summing both halves of the AC wave.
You need to get a sensor around just the hot wire of the circuit, which is only accessible on its own inside the breaker box.
* Some new versions of these outlets come with firmware that can not be patched/flashed so do some research.
Also most of these are limited to 10 amps of restive load... inductive loads like motors, compressors, and to an extent power supplies, will have peak loads 3-4x there 'real' consumption which can damage the relay if its not rated for the high initial load. If anyone knows of a cheap alternative or cheap DIY that can handle +20A I would be very interested as it would be nice to be able to control things like fridges without worrying the outlet will fail closed & my food will spoil.
There are two ways to do it.
Either, one clamp, and it calculates the other two, or you can use three clamps.