I don't get what the fuss is about, either. The debugger is pretty much the only suggestion I like - I've used JSwat with Clojure and it's not very pleasant. Obviously some kind of continuation-based debugging facility would be nice, but it's basically not going to happen because of the JVM, not because Rich Hickey is an Evil Bastard (he's not). Either way, a usable debugger will materialise sooner or later, Yegge-tantrum or not.
I think Clojure is being managed very well. I admittedly haven't followed the community for a while; the mailing list got a bit too high traffic for me, and I can't use the JVM for most of my projects. But whenever I am using Clojure and have a problem, it's usually because I haven't found the right bit in the docs, or because I missed/misunderstood a major feature that was added recently, or because the functional style sometimes is just a bit beyond the capabilities of my brain. (I'll write the code in imperative style, then translate it to functional, and usually learn something in the process; done) I don't see that as a failing of the language, but my inexperience with it. Doing simple things with it is simple.
I have a theory, though. Yegge talks about porting Java code to Clojure. I think that's the problem right there. Sure, if you're porting line-by-line, it's not going to be especially nice. It's a bit like translating German to English sentence-by-sentence. Most of the time it works, despite sounding a bit stilted. But sometimes there isn't a direct equivalent, and you have to change the surrounding sentences. The structure of your average Java program is so wildly different of your average Clojure program, no wonder it doesn't port directly.
 Okay, I'm not massively experienced with Clojure. I've written maybe a few tens of thousands of LOC of it, and no really big projects.
There is a trace macro but it doesn't provide complete traces without explicitly adding every function you want to trace, which becomes tricky very soon. Manual tracing with printf()s like in non-functional languages isn't built-in either. There are half-baked macros for this on blogs if you google hard enough, but that is not the kind of thing that leaves a solid impression of a language.
Maybe I was just working in a non-clojuresque way.
For me, however, its not a reason to quit.