Also interesting to learn that Japanese “2x4”s are in that ratio exactly. In the US, they’re 1/2” under nominal size (so 1.5” by 3.5”). Makes it awkward to stack pieces together at times. (2 2x2s next to each other in the US are smaller than a 2x4.)
How 2x4s depreciate according to Twin Peaks: .
It appears in the US they start out at 2x4 and are trimmed down to make them look more finished.
EDIT to ask if OP means 'bigger' rather than 'smaller'?
If you still want to have anger, you can take solace that 2 1x2s do stack up to be (very close to) a 2x2, but 2 2x2s do not make a 2x4.
(Unlike solid 2x2s, which tend to twist and warp so much as to be completely useless, finger-joint 2x2s are super stable, and always come dead straight.)
Eventually they decided enough and standardized on the current size. The standard is more important than the actual size.
It's usually not a problem, except when it's used beside a 2x4 on the flat, in which case the 2x4 needs to be thinned down on the table saw.
I had been told it had something to do with WWII but could find no actual evidence.
When we remodeled our house (built in California in 1920j We found all the 2x4s were 2x4, all the 4x6 were really 4x6 and all had been cut from the center of old growth trees (no knots and no warping after 80 years. We reused them all of course.
Aluminum extrusion is pretty nice to work with, though in retrospect I probably wouldn't do it again for the workbench. I was able to source it from China via Alibaba, and even with $200 shipping the pricing is way less than you can get it in the US. It was so inexpensive that I ordered a bunch extra in case I want to build a custom 3D printer or CNC or something. The extra was nearly free.
You can cut aluminum on woodworking tools. I went slow, and the cuts I got looked nearly as good as the factory cuts. They are quite sturdy.
My idea was that I could use the extrusion channels for mounting accessories or clamping. For example, mounting rollers when using it as an in/out feed table. A jig for flattening some raw wood using a router. Channels to lock the 4 into a 4x8 assembly table, but split it apart to store along the back and sides of the garage.
The worst part is that the US extrusion isn't overpriced. For someone who wanted to start a small business making and selling this extrusion, dies would be $xx,xxx for each shape, and getting 6061 through those dies from a local extruder would run around $3, maybe $4 a pound for the more detailed shapes. Prices presented to individuals are $4-$5 per pound.
It seemed like an opportunity to get a bunch in and resell it, but that's not something I'm looking to do.
I kind of wanted to use it for stiffness and straightness, but in retrospect adding T track to wooden carcasses probably would have been a better option. Especially as 20 profile isn't the same size as typical T-track and associated tooling. It is stiff and strong and straight though.
I have a custom designed desk for my office that I had somebody help me fabricate. During that time I realized that, if you use a thick piece of hardwood, you can completely skip the inner legs. In my case it is 1.5" cherry wood.
Knowing that now, I've realized there are other benefits like my monitors shaking less because the desk is so rigid. I'd definitely recommend a solid, hardwood surface to anybody looking to get a custom work desk setup!
You use two or three Alex book shelves and a large wood veneer countertop. (Karlby commonly).
If you don't want a leg in the center you can use metal angle bars screwed into the bottom of the counter top (which also double as a place to secure cables).
Lots of examples of this configuration if you search on reddit.
It looks nicer than standard desks, is often cheaper, and works better.
I love this w/ my desk because I can adjust my height all day :)
Rise UP Electric Adjustable Height Width Standing Desk Legs Frame Base. Ergonomic Motorized sit to Stand up Home Commercial Office Table. Dual 2 Motors. 4 Programmable Memory. Gray https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B072XCVYVX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_...
What is the main limitation for cables regarding transmission rates? Do we just need to move to fiber?
I was surprised recently looking into wifi options that apparently the new wifi 6 claims to handle 2400Mbps.
I assumed a wired connection would always trounce wireless (and I guess cat6 can do 4x that), but it seems like people are moving mostly to wireless setups. Is it solely because of the inconvenience of wiring things through a building?
The entire WiFi network can handle 2400Mbps.
While a 10Gbps CAT6 cable can handle a 10Gbps connection up and down stream per wire.
In short: 10Gbps CAT6 vs WiFi6 on "apples-to-apples" terms is 20Gbps (10Gbps per direction) vs WiFi 2.4Gbps.
Note that each additional CAT6 cable you add to the network increases your aggregate bandwidth by another 20Gbps (10Gbps duplex). A 8-port 10Gbps switch can be organizing 80Gbps duplex (80Gbps to, and from, every port), or 160Gbps in WiFi terms.
And in any case, with air cooling and components that aren't bottom-of-the-barrel, the quiet part ceases as soon as load is applied anyway. But that's what I'm here for, so a PC that's only quiet as long as I don't use it - pointless.
It sits in the living room and I honestly do not hear it ever, except when it starts to vibrate for some reason sometimes (I will hunt that down someday)
This includes the time I slept a few times on the couch that is just next to it and I was annoyed by a small wall clock 5 meters away (I took the battery off and it is 11:15-ish now for 2 or 3 years, nobody noticed I think)
So that really may happen.
EDIT : I just checked and the clock is still off :)
I opted for with drawers but that might have been a mistake. I'll know soon.
I think they will have a much longer lifespan than the electronically controlled sit/stand desks.
If anyone is wondering, the hand crank is easy to turn. But if I had to I could trick it out so it's longer to add leverage and make it easier to turn.
The issue with the drawers is one of leg room. I would love to be able to use them but it might not workout that way. Give me a couple days for design. Then a buildout on the weekend.
Pro - Yes, the hand crank is removable. The socket the crank sits in is maybe a 3/8" hex (female). That is, getting the drill to interface w/ the socket should be straight forward. The concern is the drill being powerful enough.
What if the crank was larger? Say 12" or more, like a wheel? Would that help you? Perhaps the drill could leverage that somehow? But my recommendation would be - if you are physically able to use it - to extend the crank to 2 feet (or more). That should help.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Physically I would be able to use a hand crank just fine, but if it's anything like reclining the seat in my Volkswagen (a 3" knob on the seatback hinge, rather than the typical lever), I'd hate to do it more than once a day. If it's not convenient to use, I would likely just leave it in the down position permanently out of laziness. I really like the idea of a motorized adjustable desk with one-touch memory buttons, but the cost and usual implementation is not to my liking.
Ideally, once I get used to standing, I don't intend to sit, sans the weekends.
A longer crank handle would just make it take longer. And I don't want to stand full time. I tried that for a few weeks with a makeshift standing desk (a bunch of boxes stacked on top of my filing cabinet to the correct height) just to see if I would like it, and it was great for an hour or three, but I did not want to stand all day. Ideally, I'd be able to switch modes 2-4 times a day.
The longer handle would make it faster because the same amount of energy would move the "dial" further.
That said, your actual question is: How many total crank rotations to get from lowest to highest?
That said, a plywood deck that is glued and screwed down like a subfloor pretty much absolves all sins.
For most projects, glue & screw is fine. It's cheap and low effort. I use it in every utility project because speed > looks. I've never tested it, but I'm pretty sure that connection would be stronger than the wood itself.
This new Japan project looks a lot more ambitious, good luck xD.
Also, structural pipe is usually pretty dirty from production and I've found it's worth the cost to just have a local metal fabricator take care of the cleaning.
I have a question: what CAD software do you use? Would you recommend it to a beginner?
I'm desperate in that software space, everything seems either clunky, too complex (as a beginner) or overly expensive...
The key thing to know in FreeCAD is that you almost always want to use the "Part Design" workbench. Then the workflow for creating a part starts with creating a "Body". The "Body" represents a single solid. The major features of your part are created with 2-dimensional sketches (either on the base planes, or on flat surfaces of the part, or on datum planes that you can define). The sketches are then "Padded" up to form a solid bit or "Pocketed" down to form holes in the solid bits (although there are other operations as well - Pad and Pocket are the most important).
Knowing that much should be enough to help you mentally plan your part, and then looking at the tutorials should be enough to learn how to use the UI. If you are reading this and are having trouble with FreeCAD please feel free to email me (address in bio) and I will try to help you.
I love FreeCAD and I wish it was the "default" hobbyist CAD instead of Fusion360.
Blender has ability to do simple constraint, but it's not its primary uses. FreeCAD can also be used the Blender way but the software will warn about being under-constraint. Both FreeCAD and Blender can export to STL file (used by CAD softwares), but Blender's STL usually need to be scaled to real world measurements. In case of 3D printing, this STL file can be imported into a slicer software such as PrusaSlicer, which outputs GCode to control the printer (e.g. X, Y, Z coordinates, extrusion temperature, etc.)
Blender is polygon-based 3D modelling with (pretty much) free-hand drawing and no constraints or dimensions.
FreeCAD and Blender can both export to many of the same formats (notably STL, for 3d printing), but their internal data representation, and supported workflow, is completely different.
FreeCAD is more appropriate when you want mechanical parts, and Blender is more appropriate when you want something artistic like a figurine.
There are many sneaky ways that people get expensive CAD licenses (I use Solidworks) - many organizations offer an educational license if you are a member. For example, check out the Experimental Aircraft Association.
There's something great about having the names for things be their commands: you want a line? Just type "line".
The biggest issue is that the web version is lacking but the desktop version hasn't been updated in like a decade. So be sure to have a shortcut list handy on another screen because you have to use shortcuts if you're going to be remotely productive.
The overall intent of the structure seems to be "make it sturdy", and yes, overkill :P If you're like me and your monitor(s) are wobbling while typing (=programming = working), a simper solution is to get monitor arms and attach them NOT to the table. So either screw them directly to the wall, or (what I'm doing) to a piece of wood clamped to the window ledge, or something like that. (That's more a hint for the general HN crowd).
Have fun with the woodworking :)
Luckily yours does not appear to be concrete...
As others have mentioned S4S lumber in the US is not standardized in size. It can vary. If your using a softwood like Pine, it will also not be strait. This is going to cause your tight tolerances to be off. You should build this with lumber that has been fully dried, and fully straitened and taken to a lesser tolerance, something that can be plained and jointed down to.
They do still have tabletops, although I incorrectly remembered it as Birch it's actually Beech: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/gerton-tabletop-beech-50106773/