This is the same way you coil a bandsaw blade, which has the dubious advantage of having two readily distinguishable edges. When coiled correctly, all of the teeth face the same way in the coil.
You can actually repeat the coiling process on a bandsaw blade one of two ways (theoretically, there are probably more, practically, if you have blade long enough to need to, please invite me over so I can ogle your saw):
1. Repeat it with the whole 3 coil loop, which gives you a 9 coil loop. Uncoiling without injuring oneself is a bit tricky, as bandsaw blades are quite springy, and it's hard to uncoil the blade in two discrete steps one it's in a nine coil loop.
2. Gather the three coil section to one side (or equivalently, extend one of the three coils) giving the gathered section about 1/3 the total size of the exteneded section, then repeat the process with the exteneded loop in one hand and the gathered coils in the other yielding a five coil loop. It's still tricky to get the whole thing uncoiled in 2 discrete steps, but you've stored a bit less energy in the coils of the blade and it's somewhat less hazardous.
I wouldn't suggest trying either of these with a 93 1/2" blade (the standard size for 14" saws), but method 2 works well with a 162" blade.
I took a knot theory class in college and there are actually two characteristics, twist and writhe, that are quantifiable and can be exchanged by coiling and uncoiling (massive handwaving, bad terminology, etc. That class was a long while ago). If you've ever taken a garden hose in a flat coil (with all the coils in the same direction) and pulled it out without unwinding it, you've enjoyed an illustration of this.
Twist and ‘writhe’ also explain the counterintuitive ‘roadie wrap’ method for coiling long wires - where alternate loops are reversed, introducing twists, but resulting in a wire that can be uncoiled smoothly by pulling one end - or holding one end and throwing the coil.
A spool works too. If you have a spool you don't get the twists. The twists are incurred by coiling wire by adding to the sides of the coil without a rotation of the coil itself. If you use a rotating spool you won't have such an issue.
It also puts less strain on the wire, making it last longer. This is really important in say a TV studio, where the cable that connects a camera can cost thousands of dollars.
Honestly, I majored in compsci. Between the required first and second semester calculus and two math electives I took, I was one class from a math minor. Knot theory looked interesting, had no prerequisites, and seemed like I could pass it.
It has had zero applicability to anything I’ve done since, except for coiling bandsaw blades and climbing rope.
I hope that wasn’t a terribly disappointing answer to your question.
It wasn't disappointing. So knot theory was part of the school of mathematics? That's fascinating. I love academia - those little foibles and weird little intricacies - they've all been poured over and thought about and re-evaluated. It's just so fun, from a higher-order thinking perspective.
Yeah, the class was through the math department. I share your amazement at just how fractally complicated the world is that you end up with such specialized fields!
You can actually repeat the coiling process on a bandsaw blade one of two ways (theoretically, there are probably more, practically, if you have blade long enough to need to, please invite me over so I can ogle your saw):
1. Repeat it with the whole 3 coil loop, which gives you a 9 coil loop. Uncoiling without injuring oneself is a bit tricky, as bandsaw blades are quite springy, and it's hard to uncoil the blade in two discrete steps one it's in a nine coil loop.
2. Gather the three coil section to one side (or equivalently, extend one of the three coils) giving the gathered section about 1/3 the total size of the exteneded section, then repeat the process with the exteneded loop in one hand and the gathered coils in the other yielding a five coil loop. It's still tricky to get the whole thing uncoiled in 2 discrete steps, but you've stored a bit less energy in the coils of the blade and it's somewhat less hazardous.
I wouldn't suggest trying either of these with a 93 1/2" blade (the standard size for 14" saws), but method 2 works well with a 162" blade.
I took a knot theory class in college and there are actually two characteristics, twist and writhe, that are quantifiable and can be exchanged by coiling and uncoiling (massive handwaving, bad terminology, etc. That class was a long while ago). If you've ever taken a garden hose in a flat coil (with all the coils in the same direction) and pulled it out without unwinding it, you've enjoyed an illustration of this.