The thing is, I eventually just accepted enjoying the experience. There's zen out there in the surf, whether you're waiting for a wave or riding one. Cold, salty water on your face, in your hair, down your throat, it recharges the body & soul. It can be very social too. Which, if I had never tried, would've never known.
It's a welcome - even "needed" - break from the keyboard. And maybe just maybe while I'm splashing around out there, I'll eventually "get" it.
Living at the beach seems part of the price of getting good at surfing.
Paraphrasing Steve McQueen, more like, where work in between surfing was an option.
My take : surfing is really hard. Most people struggle because of the physical conditioning needed and the proximity to good waves. I thought boxing had a harder and steeper learning curve with more technical variables, especially when up against a human opponent.
Also, This guy took way too long to get good.
> This action is turned off for content made for kids
How is that helpful? YouTube seems to actively try to make their site worse every day.
Like the video, and on the left panel should be your liked videos. Click that, and you'll see your liked videos. Add it to your playlists from there.
Getting good at surfing is hard.
Getting up on small, mostly foam waves is not hard. Typically achievable your first time out, nobody I know that is remotely athletic has struggled to do that in 2-3ft surf. Once you get that first wave you are hooked and then its all nailing the timing. Which takes time.
Practicing the prone to standing explosive move on the beach 10-15 times before hand is helpful.
No idea why these people are so bad.
Happened to me learning to Ski, and I have pretty similar experience as they talked in the video. After two years of 'learning', the real improvement came only after I started to just let it go. Enjoy the time on the slopes, comparing small moves, figuring out balance and eventually figuring out to parallel ski.
In these cases I feel trying to do a complex, nuanced, full body sport is akin to doing Calculus without grasping Algebra. You can take that Calc I class 100x and you will still fail.
I am not trying to be critical of those who struggle to learn but suggest that there is often a way to shortcut that frustration. I love seeing people "get" a new sport and despite how inspiring their persistence it is really disheartening to see people fail unnecessarily for years.
I immediately sent this to a friend who decided to learn guitar and has spent the last two years trying to achieve a long ride over the fretboard.
I think what makes surfing hard is that you spend a lot of time waiting for the right wave. You can spend a long time in the water for just a few attempts. When you learn snowboarding, you will find the right slope (hopefully soft snow), and you will repeat the moves until you get it.
Also, I think they’re doing what most surfers don’t do and showing their worst waves. For those that don’t recognize the band, Tom Sachs is an internationally known artist that makes large installations (such as a larger than scale replica of that Apollo Lunar Module) out of scrap and junk. This video is very much in his style.
best place place to learn IMHO is waikiki w/ one of the "beach boys," they've probably seen more beginners than any other place, teach you the unwritten rules, and can get you going fast.
after that, just gotta put in time.
Many people started learning at 40, and it still needed 5 years.
however! i once heard an old surfer describe surfing proficiency vs being good w/ an analogy: "you're fluent in the language, but when you talk, we hear the accent." and, like i said, i skateboarded a lot and that immediately makes sense to me. when i see folks skateboard that learned later in life i can immediately recognize it just by the way they push the board, let alone ride it. i'm ok w/ having an accent.