You used to be able to double tap to zoom very easily but somehow that does not work as well anymore in iOS 13. Now when you do it, it selects the text as well as zooming.
OK, correction: something I just figured out today is that you can actually set the zoom level for a given site as well now. So I set it to like 50% for Google and now I get the desktop version zoomed in properly whenever I search.
I was hoping there was a setting for the results domain that disabled AMP.