Could they use an end mill the same size as the hole, instead of a smaller end mill that follows a circular path?
Could they have built a machine with many end mills, correctly spaced, to drill all holes in one shot?
I exclusively use Linux distros on it now - hopefully they make it easy to do that on the new machines.
Though I don't see why anyone would want to pay the rather large price premium of this machine if they're not running MacOS on it.
If you were doing this in "real" volume, you would likely likely just cast aluminum into this shape.
However, companies like apple/amazon/etc have a tendency to just find a supplier who can sell them semi-specialized machines and buy a lot of them.
Apple has bought out (either the machines or capacity) for things like laser drilling.
Amazon echo/echo show's were made by buying a ton of semi-custom machines from these folks: https://mdaprecision.com/
(They talk about it in various places)
Not that it's a good idea - you need to be able to actually evacuate material from the surface you're cutting, and milling is different than drilling in this respect. But I imagine you could come up with a very fast two step program using a cylindrical end mill for plunging/roughing and a relatively large ball end mill for finishing.
Please note that I am far from even a beginner machinist.
The thought was only that a large-radius ball would be able to approximate the sphere to within tolerance with larger stepover than a smaller tool. After bulk material removal with a more suitable cylindrical tool of course.
With a little bit of googling I discovered a different class of end mill called a circle segment tool, which could potentially make short work of the problem in a 5-axis machine:
Would love to see how Apple does it, but it's never happening.
I'm not really a machinist either, but let's not allow that to stop us from incorrecting each other on HN!
With drilling you need to evacuate material also.
Or am I misunderstanding something, I am far from an expert in such things.
Specifically re: strings, though, I’ve always wondered whether—as a separate problem—it’d be possible to have an end mill or drill that dices long stringy chip into shards. Seems like it’d make operation/maintenance easier in some respects. Maybe a bit with two parts, where the tip (either end mill or drill) has counter rotation against teeth running down the rest of the bit, such that the chip gets sheared as it encounters the interface between the two parts?
It seems highly likely there is a ball end mill involved in getting the final smooth shape (maybe after roughing out the holes with a cylindrical tool). The main question is whether the ball is the same size as the hole, or a bit smaller (which would require it to move around in little spiral paths instead of just going in and out once).
Edit: ok, looks like it is hemispherical, so you're right. I had thought initially that it was two layers of offset circular holes.
Perhaps they are using the same technique, but in a 3d setup.
Edit: found an interesting link:
> The 'aluminium cutting system' which most modern equipment uses is actually a way of protecting the laser rather than an innovative technique for cutting.
They used to do this on MacBook Pros as well, I'm not sure whether they still do it.
It's as bright as it can be while still picking up the LED light.
Tryophobia sounds like one of those "I have OCD" things because people are "so peculiar." I'm not discounting that folks may have a legitimate mental illness resulting from it, but that has to be an overwhelming minority of users.
FWIW I had my first really strong trypophobia reaction to the shattered glass on my family minivan's windshield after hitting a deer, age 7 or so, long before Reddit. (No injuries, other than the deer, just inconvenience). I felt weird. I kept thinking about it afterward. I wanted to bash it in. Discovered more than 10 years later that there's a name for it and and it's a thing other people experience.
They also claim maximum continuous power is 1280W at 108–125V or 220–240V/1180W at 100–107V, so I can imagine getting enough airflow without building a hoover (I don’t expect this thing to be silent, but they will hav tried hard to make it as silent as possible) was a bit of a challenge.
If you had to build your own computer and you had the choice of more RAM or a fancy hood ornament, what would you go for? I would be inclined to go for the former.
But it is not about that. If you go into a post production edit suite where they do fancy things then the clients have a fancy sofa with a well stocked fridge. Not a few plastic chairs and a cooler box. People hiring these services expect a certain amount of wow factor to know they have arrived.
Years ago the tech had a certain amount of power projection to it. If the box was big and purple with 'Silicon Graphics' written on the front of it then you knew the toys were the real deal. But, despite the fancy cases to these machines they were not fancy for the sake of it. They just exuded class, much like how a European hypercar just says something that a Toyota saloon fails to achieve despite having four wheels and an engine.
I am not sure that Apple really hit the high notes of wow factor with this case design for the benefit of the clients. The case speaks more to the users than the clients. A veritable status symbol, but, then again, when it comes to bang per buck, it is more hood ornament than engine displacement.
Design is about efficiency of manufacture as well as how it looks. I look at this and I know that some robot spent a long time drilling the holes. It is hood ornament. One thing you want with vents is ease of cleaning. The design statement, if made in plastic as a pop-out panel could be popped out and given a scrub. In 2-3 years time with a layer of gunk inside how do you get this cleaned up? It gets a bit fiddly. And all for a hood ornament.
I think that it looks pretty but how do you put the thing in the machine room? They could have done a 19" rack variant with 'ears' rather than a cheese grater. Sure it has wheels for under the desk but I would prefer to press the power button on the front rather than wheel the box out first before getting to the button.