> This is a good occasion to ask yourself: am I including "now wedge a screwdriver in there" as part of some important work that I do? Shouldn't I use my screwdrivers only for driving screws, one might ask, and not for, say, keeping this plutonium assembly from going critical?
* Many clips (dryer faceplate, window sash, ...) are designed to be pried open with a screwdriver.
* When repairing a popped drywall nail, a screwdriver is a good tool for removing the joint compound under the nail.
* When you buy a lock it usually comes with a rounded faceplate. To swap the faceplate, they'll tell you to use a screwdriver to pry it off.
A flathead screwdriver is a good tool for general light prying, not just for putting in slotted screws. This heuristic has a lot of false positives.
* "Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry wire connectors off." http://www.crystalcoolers.com/CMIL/ServiceManual/EverestElit...
* "Use a flathead screwdriver to GENTLY push the wire harness from the board." https://www.carlisleft.com/library/SI06031si.pdf
* "Carefully remove the airbag plastic logo. This plastic piece is set deep into the door so be sure to pry it with some force by inserting a small flathead screw driver just under the plastic piece and pushing it out." https://bimmian.com/content/pdfs/CMC46.pdf
* "Use your flathead screwdriver to release the two clips on each side." https://lib.americanmuscle.com/files/contentgenerator/deatsc...
A prybar is for when you need a lot more force.
But who cares, they're replaced for free and delivered :)
Those have a lifetime warranty now too.
I would love to have SnapOn stuff, if I were made of money or found it second-hand, but it's just stupid expensive new, especially for stuff that tends to get abused.
But I think you'll find that the iFixit Guide to Nuclear Warhead Testing recommends more specialised tooling.
there was a second sketch made from that drawing which i also found fascinating. it doesn't add any additional information or analytical ability, but is just a sort of interesting and slightly dark translation of a rote schematic diagram into an artistic rendering of the event: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_Slotin#/media/File:Sloti...
I searched around for awhile trying to find the purpose and/or author of that second sketch but to no avail. however i did use it as the cover for an EP i released. please enjoy!
The corners people will cut never cease to amaze me.
FWIW, this was the first time I'd done something like that in about 5 years and I felt horrible during and afterwards even though nothing went wrong. I felt like I should have given up a sobriety coin or something. Feels bad. Like falling off the wagon.
I learned to drive nine months ago, and I've been watching myself do this every time I get on the highway in the past few months. Even knowing that I'm doing it, it's hard to avoid.
I've cut a LOT of corners, but that one is just insane...
Hint: Lots of people have daisy chained outlets backward, and lots of AC circuits still work with the wiring reversed.
Pretty sure we found one where they had reversed them twice, so black was hot at the end of the circuit but not in the middle.
Some decades ago, the house had two meters. One was just for the hot water heater. But when they removed that one, they just connected the water heater to the main meter. Directly. Not through the breaker panel.
Damn. Almost killed me.
Do you mean they wired it in parallel with the main breaker panel, so you couldn't disconnect it to work on it?
Makes me wonder, why not make a 110v washing machine and save the trouble of having both 110v and 220v at home?
Running both voltages into a house isn’t much of a burden. Residential electricity in the US is two-phase. A 120V circuit pulls from one phase, with the various circuits in your house divided between them to even out the load. A 240V circuit just connects to both phases.
Plus as you semi-observe, everything on a socket here is 220V
In the US all residential washing machines are 110V, as are gas dryers, but electric dryers take 220V.
Industrial 240 usually is single or 3phase.
What's the amount of radiation that thing gave off simply from decay, in a non-critical state?
Not much. U-235 has a 700M year half-life. Pu-239's is 24,000 years.
You're more at risk from ingesting/inhaling bits of it.
This is the vaaaast majority of the risk profile for radioactive anything.
The half life doesn't really tell you the whole story, Pu-239 mostly decays into alpha particles which is what makes it "safe", it's still not good for you, and very bad if ingested, but externally alpha radiation doesn't really penetrate deep enough into the body to be a big problem.
For relatively brief power excursions like this one (which Slotin himself stopped by removing the reflector), the prompt burst was well over a lethal level but the radiation dose-rate from fission product decay even a tiny time later would not be immediately hazardous.
For those looking to learn more, Los Alamos has a great writeup of every publicly-known incident (in the US, USSR, and elsewhere) that details just how many times similar incidents happened: