Yeah, headers will be removed, etc. You may not have easy access to the pins you need.
This is a useful collection of soldering/desoldering tips for those that don't do it much.
If everybody should learn to code, maybe everybody should learn to mod hardware without destroying it or hurting yourself.
Magnet wire is enamel insulated. You can burn it off, but scraping it with a scalpel is probably better.
You can buy PTFE wire. You should not attempt to burn off the insulation. That would release harmful smoke. PTFE wire is a good choice for a beginer because the insulation is harder to burn and it doesn't shrink back with heat, unlike PVC. It's a bit harder to use otherwise - it's harder to strip, and the insulation is a bit stiffer than PVC.
Source: I used to build "chock control interfaces" that were full of PTFE wire looms.
This is a nice article with some useful advice for beginners. I think most important is to just get junk PCBs and practice taking things off, or putting things on. You really need to get some familiarity with how solder flows on different types of board or different components.
> Decide if you want to remount the component or re-use the rest of the device. We will take more care if we do.
When I was doing it we'd only ever remove faulty components. Often it's safer to chop the legs off, remove the body, and then you can use small amounts of heat to remove each pin. This protects the PCB, which is usually the expensive bit. (Especially if it's populated with components.)
(I do a lot of soldering)
I'm also really against the recommendation to use lead solder. First off it's expensive and harder and harder to get. But in a professional setting it opens you to a regulatory mess.
That said 60/40 lead solder is trash compared to 60/37/3 lead tin/antimony solder.
Getting a palette of product shipped back to you is not a fun event.
A quick search seems to indicate that this is not available for purchase anywhere?
DON'T use lead-free solder, unless forced to. Lead-free solder is a nightmare.
Use leaded 63/37 solder, although 60/40 is fine.
But I haven't seen it in about 20 years. Even before then most solder was 60/40.
If I say "if you just look at the exhaust, instead of using proper equipment, you probably aren't testing emissions thoroughly", am I gatekeeping against those poor emissions testers that just don't have any equipment?
63/37 is way easier to deal with when soldering since it's harder to create a cold joint with it.
Also a 5X binocular microscope is really good to have. Time goes by. The eyes get weak and the parts get smaller.