Thanks for this tip! Private browsing mode causes the tab bar to reappear (though the tabs are still hidden), so I found that the selector #TabsToolbar works even better.
Also, the large, bright sidebar header can be hidden with the #sidebar-header selector.
Then go to the hamburger menu > Customization and check "Title Bar" at the bottom left. Then it pretty much looks like FF 56.
I've also changed the style of TSTs in the add-on settings (all the way at the bottom; not in userChrome.css) such that the tabs don't take up as much vertical space and to hide the close box button (and only show it on the mouse-over event):
#tabbrowser-tabs { visibility: collapse !important; }