I'm oversensitive though. E.g. slightly flickering energy saving lamps make me dizzy, exacerbated by ACs making my eyes dry (hello, Ikea).
I hope those nano-coated regular light bulbs will become a thing.
Poor quality LEDs are awful - the 50/60Hz flicker/strobe effect that many produce is very annoying and fatiguing and it doesn't surprise me that they're considered a health hazard.
Try quality LEDs and you won't regret them.
Incandescent lamps are typically ~2500K CCT
Quality certainly doesn't mean Brand-name in this day and age of unscrupulous law-buying companies.
Actually, it's a great measurement if you only work with the monochromatic ones. Knowing the LEDs efficiency at bin testing conditions will tell you what to expect - E.G. high-bin 3w 460n LED with 50% efficiency at 3w drive and typical operating temperatures (~70C junction temperature) means you can expect 1.5W of light. We toss in Avogadro's constant and a couple other formulas, do some multiplication, and suddenly we know roughly how many photons are being put out.
This gets harder with white LEDs as one must figure out the relative percentage of each wavelength comprising the light, basically forcing you to do the math a few hundred times over, but it's still rather reliable. I just do rough calculations in my head for White LEDs.
5 years for a product that is advertised as lasting for decades as this usage rate.
Tubes? Presumably you're talking about CFLs, not LEDs? 5 years ago, household LED lamps were still in their infancy and were really expensive.
My experience with CFLs was pretty similar to yours. They didn't last, and dimmable ones especially would often fail within months. And the quality of light from fluorescents was never all that good anyway.
But out of around 25 Philips LEDs I've installed, most of them dimmables, not a single one has failed or had any problems so far. The oldest ones were installed around a year ago now.
So much of a crapshoot.
As you research, you'll discovered that there is in fact more to the single CRI value. It is actually an average measurement of a range of different colors. R9 in particular is the one that is hardest for LEDs to reproduce. Some manufactures goose their CRI value by getting high scores for the other values even though their R9 or R13 (skin tone) is poor.
Also, a neat fact: all CEC qualified LEDs are high CRI.
(P.S. I bought a GE Reveal once and it had the worst color fidelity I've ever seen. Some normally bluish surfaces were distinctly green. I don't understand how it has a high CRI.)
In short, I wouldn't trust GE for LEDs. In fact, I'm so disillusioned with almost every company out there (Cree, Philips, GE, Sylvania) that I've simply gone back to building my own lights for my specific purposes. I can't trust any of these companies to be accurate or truthful in their marketing.
Is this what your username references?
Making daylight is easy enough. The Nichia 219B LED in 5000K R9050 (CRI 90+, R9 50+) is beautiful. 12-18 of them will comfortably make over 5000 lumens without having to be driven especially hard. It's not terribly hard to come up with options to wire them up and heatsink them properly either.
What I haven't been able to find is a suitable power supply and driver. I want to plug it in to 100-240V and have a dimmer knob giving me 5-5000+ lumens via current regulation, not PWM, though very fast (> 10kHz) PWM might be acceptable. Yes, I'm aware the tint will shift a bit through the brightness range without PWM. I'm OK with that.
Infinite? Not happening, but if you want to get CLOSE, your best bet is in a simple benchtop voltage and current regulator. I use four Nichia 219B LEDs to light my 55-gallon aquarium, are you SURE you really need 5,000 lumens? You could probably get away with just four of those, a fixed 12V power supply with adjustable current, and be done with it, they're ungodly bright and a quad of those can match up with the Cree MK-R.
I'm sure I want over 5000 lumens. When I want my room well-lit to promote a sense of alertness and compensate for shorter days in winter, my best current option is a flashlight that produces about 4200 lumens bounced off the ceiling. No, that's not one of those BS marketing numbers: the light is a Jetbeam T6, which in stock form uses four Cree XP-Ls powered from four 18650 Li-ion batteries. Independent tests, including my own have found its claimed performance to be accurate. I swapped the XP-Ls for Nichia 219Cs (5000K, CRI 80+, R9 unspecified) and measured about a 2% loss of output, but increased intensity. This works as a room light, but requires an external cooling fan to run on high for longer than about 10 minutes (it has a thermal sensor and stepdown), and the batteries can only keep up with that output for a bit over an hour. 219Cs are more efficient than 219Bs and can be driven much harder, but aren't as pretty. Even the recently-released R9050 (CRI: 90+, R9: 50+) version just doesn't look as nice to me.
Four 219Bs definitely can't produce 5000 lumens. The 90+ CRI versions peak at about 600, but I don't want to run them at peak output; the harder they're driven, the stronger the spectral peak of the underlying blue LED. I want to run them at about 300lm/ea. 12 of them will get me that, but I'd actually rather have more than 5000 lumens.
Thanks for responding. I was hoping for an off the shelf driver, but it looks like I'm going to be improvising a bit more.
It's also difficult to find the 048Z available in single quantities. I didn't find the R9050 version on Octopart, Other versions cost $50-60, while 219Bs in several tints are readily available from suppliers of DIY flashlight parts for $3/pc. Getting 219Bs and triple or quad copper MCPCBs is easy, and they can be configured for any multiple of about 3 volts, while the 048Z requires a 50 volt power supply.
I was expecting to spend over $100 when all is said and done.
Just ask Nichia for an engineering sample. :) Boom, free sample if they've got one for you to utilize. I don't know how many Cree, KingBright, Nichia, Osram, and Epistar LEDs I've got just because I ask to test them.
As for the 50V power supply, it'll run on a 48V 1.25A driver. You'll be fine and those are about $20 each.