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I did a similar thing 2 years ago and chose Fastmail. Their web-app is best of breed ex google -- unfortunately, the honest truth is nothing is as good as gmail web + gmail apps + google cal.

Fastmail does have more issues -- lack of fit and finish, their web app is sometimes buggy, their spam detection is buggy, it's imap, the lack of gmail style conversations being the fundamental unit of work in the app shines through sometimes, the gmail app on android does not interact well with fastmail, etc. However, they have recently fixed my biggest complaints: charging 11 cents per sms message to do 2fa and their rules interface looking like it was written as a my-first-javascript project. So it's actively improving. I like it enough that I recently re-upped for another two years.

They do enjoy one big advantage over google besides privacy: tech support! Like a human, that reads and responds to issues submitted through their site! I've contacted them twice with questions about setting up my domain and one other thing and I got replies, from someone who knew what she/he was doing, within an hour each time!

Also, they will do a catch-all address (eg xoxo@xoxo.com) which receives email from every address not specifically defined. Thus you can implement the best anti-spam technique: every email you give out is domain@xoxo.com which forwards to you@x0x0.com so you can tell exactly who sold or leaked your email address. eg latimes@x0x0.com was sold all over the place.

I love fastmail. Really I do not like gmail style conversations so I prefer fastmail over gmail.

I too love the FastMail web interface. It rocks! On Android, unfortunately, FastMail comes up short. I have yet to find a satisfactory solution

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