Coming from the inside of the enterprise web publishing world I'd suggest it's not 37signals that is missing something.
Of course the author (of the review) did found a chain of restaurants...
And they host everything on DOS. Because it's simple! No?
I think this stuff goes both ways... you can't just wave "simple!" around.
If you really wanted simple, you'd use a pencil and paper.
What I disagree with is "business by platitude".